Conflicting Information

[cwhiatt]

Here is a quote from Ratman on a previous post:

Originally Posted by Ratman:

"Sharpness" is a non-issue. set it to where you like.

"Contrast" is the one you want to keep as low as tolerable

"I dont have contrast option for my tv."

"Picture' is probably contrast... (white level)"

Let's consider that statement for a moment:

I own a Panasonic PT43LC14 and originally, I adjusted my settings by just watching tv and a few DVD's (I did not want to purchase the AVIA disc) and came up with something roughly like this (Not exact settings):

Color 39
Tint 32
Brightness 37
Picture 38
Sharpness 20

Well then I read a post under the Panasonic topic for the exact same TV I own (PT43LC14) and that owner DID purchase one of the SOUND AND VISION discs and the settings resulted in this:

Picmode: Normal
Color: +24
Tint: +36
Brightness: +14
Picture: +62
Sharpness: +10
Color Temp: Normal
Vid N/R: Off
3D I/P: On
ID1: Off
Gamma: On
Black Ext: 0


You'll notice that the "Picture" setting is nearly maxed out! So my question is, which settings are better for the tv? (Do you want to keep picture/contrast low or not?)

After watching it under both settings, I think either setting is acceptable although the settings that the Sound and Vision disc resulted seem more natural whereas the previous settings seemed warmer and maybe a bit more...something but I don't know how to explain it.

[Ratman]

Nothing conflicting at all.

High Contrast (white level) is what contributes to aging.

Keeping the contrast as low as acceptable (tolerable) will help to prolong the life/quality of the set's display.

Again... all sets are calibrated differently form the factory. A setting of +45 on set A may be the same +55 on set B.

I'm just relating what is a general guideline for contrast settings. Of course... it's up to the individual as to what setting looks best on his/her TV.

[mikehbkwm]

cwhiatt sorry but i think it would be in your best interest to buy a setup disk like avia or DVE... it would help you properly setup your tv.... i personally have sharpness set to 0 and have disable the SVM chip in the service menu because i want the image as realistic as possible... let me ask you this are people SHARP in real life do you see edge enhancement on objects in real life and the answer would be no......

[kevinw]

The person with Picture(contrast) set high is not using his disk properly.
Contrast is to set WHITE level. Both Brightness and contrast work in conjuction.
http://www.videoessentials.com/display_calibration.php

DVE or S&V can be had for about 20 bucks. If that is not worth having the best picture possible short of an ISF calibration, then why bother at all.

[Ratman]

Contrast is to set black level.

http://att.com.com/4520-6463_7-5085739-2.html

Contrast
What it is: Also called picture or white level, contrast controls the intensity of the white parts of the image and determines the overall light output of the display.

What it does: Contrast is usually set extremely high by default because it makes images look brighter in the store. High contrast can obscure details and distort lines in the image, cause eyestrain in dim rooms, and shorten the lifespan of tubes and plasma elements. Setting contrast too low robs the image of impact.

How to set it: Display a still image from DVD of a white object with some visible details--such as someone wearing a white button-up shirt or a shot of a glacier from the Ice Age DVD. Adjust the control up all the way, then reduce it until you can make out all the details in the white (such as buttons on a shirt or cracks in the ice). In general, TVs look best when contrast is set between 30 percent and 50 percent.

http://www.crutchfieldadvisor.com/S-K7MuldXxv3u/reviews/20030708/avia_review.html?page=2
White level (also called Contrast or Picture)
This setting controls overall light level. It's usually set too high. As far as my TV's settings went, I came down two or three notches from my previous settings.

Black level (also called Brightness)
The AVIA disc says people are often misled by the name Brightness into hiking this setting way up. Ideally, one wants good, solid black levels, without the blurriness that comes from too low a setting, or the over-brightness and weak black levels that come from too high a setting. The correct setting means rich shadow details and no washout of colors. I came down three or four notches from my initial setting.

[kevinw]

OOPS sorry I meant Bright but typed contrast when I saw the levels used by the guy with the disk....

[Ratman]

It happens...
Just didn't want to create yet another 'conflicting' statement!

[Matt27]

cwhiatt sorry but i think it would be in your best interest to buy a setup disk like avia or DVE... it would help you properly setup your tv.... i personally have sharpness set to 0 and have disable the SVM chip in the service menu because i want the image as realistic as possible... let me ask you this are people SHARP in real life do you see edge enhancement on objects in real life and the answer would be no......

It's ok to have some sharpness, like 5 or 10, because in my opinion without some sharpness the picture would look pretty dull, and you would squint a lot which is'nt good for your eyes.

But it depends on the set also, because some sets are grainy with the sharpness on and people turn it down to get rid of the artifacting.I guess your're right though.also it's ok to have the color up a bit, because too low a setting will make the picture dull and washed out, and to high a color setting will make everything look fake.

[benjit]

I would beg to differ with the statement that I using the disc incorrectly. I have used this disc on both LCD and direct view tube TV's. With direct view tube TV's I would agree that to prolong the life of the set, you don't want the contrast ('picture') setting set up too high as it would limit the life of the set as you wear out the 'phospor' earlier. With LCD TV's there is no 'phospor' to wear out so I would like to assume that it's no issue.

When I use the disc to set contrast I followed the instructions to the letter so that there was an obvious difference between the two 'white boxes' and so they don't 'bleed' into one another. This worked fine with the direct view tube TV and as I turned up the contrast, it was obvious where this point was as it was possible to make the two boxes bleed into one another - signalling that the contrast was set too high. On the LCD based TV, even at the highest setting, the two boxes remained different and did not bleed into one another.

To summarize, I am sure that I am using the disc correctly, as I followed the instructions to the letter. Please let me know if you are sure that this 'rule' applies to LCD rear projections TV's.

[kevinw]

I would beg to differ with the statement that I using the disc incorrectly.

When I use the disc to set contrast I followed the instructions to the letter so that there was an obvious difference between the two 'white boxes' and so they don't 'bleed' into one another. This worked fine with the direct view tube TV and as I turned up the contrast, it was obvious where this point was as it was possible to make the two boxes bleed into one another - signalling that the contrast was set too high. On the LCD based TV, even at the highest setting, the two boxes remained different and did not bleed into one another.

Please let me know if you are sure that this 'rule' applies to LCD rear projections TV's.

Well that explains it. The contrast test for blurring boxes and bending lines is primarily for CRT based TV's. Mostly to test when power supplies overload.

I would suggest reversing the contrast and brightness parameters. Brightness and contrast work in tandem. By overcompensating with one and under using the other. Try to get a setting that have them closer together but still allows for a seperation. Using DVE there are 3 bars showing, Set bright at 50 then adjust contrast untill you can no l;onger see the outside bar. It represent black while the next two are 5% and 2%
Notice in the right hand picture:
When those outside bars can not be seen but the others can then contrast is at a proper setting.

The best way to adjust sharpness, and many people have it set to low is to pause DVD with straightline -like a flag pole. Move the Sharpness all the way up. Then looking at tje edge along the pole bring the setting down until there is no ringing or ghost along side.

[mikehbkwm]

i gotta disagree on the sharpness the reason being is before i had my sharpness at 0 and have turned SVM off in the user menu... but still had some halo or rings around some objects youd really have to look to be honest but it was there.... i went into the service menu and turned VMLE to 0 which was on 2 for 1080i and 1 for 480p/i.. i can now also see the scan lines pretty easily and the image looks the most natural it has since ive had the set... again this is my opinion only....

[Matt27]

it could be your dvd player giving the ringing, did you try swapping dvd players.

[kevinw]

it could be your dvd player giving the ringing, did you try swapping dvd players.
Also backed it up with a live HD feed..My DVD player does not have any issues..Not with Faroudja processing :D

gotta disagree on the sharpness the reason being is before i had my sharpness at 0 and have turned SVM off in the user menu... but still had some halo or rings around
That is a fault of your TV. If you reduce it so far it takes the wrinkes out of clothing and the texture from objects. Actually that is the same way you set it using AVIA or DVE. The only difference is when using a cross hatch or test pattern it is harder to differentiate the multiple lines vs 1 line. That is why I recomend the Flag pole scene from DVE' s opening.