Solutions to your Blinking Status Lights? - Mitsubishi HDTV Sets

[Telstar]

.
Hello new visitors, HDTVoicers and DIYers

Welcome to possibly the last place you might need to look for information, tips and help in resolving the "blinking/flashing green light" problem that seems to plague many Mits sets...new AND old.

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The following is a collection of information that could be helpful in determining what a particular color and blinking sequence of indicator/status lights might signify in order to help you troubleshoot and repair problems on your Mitsubishi HDTV.
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What to do when your set shows a steady blinking light that stops...
and then, no picture, no sound:

*It certainly indicates that something is wrong.
*If it blinks continuously on one of the Mits sets from the last few years, it means that the
DM module has not completed its boot cycle and that the micro has not been able to talk to it.
>>The first thing to do is a system reset using the recessed button on the front panel.
>>If that does not work, unplug the set and let it sit overnight.
>>If it still does not come up (which it likely will not if the reset did not work), then a call to a
qualified ASC service repair technician is needed.
(thanks to HDTVoicer Icaillo)

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NEW REPAIR PROGRESS SLIDESHOW!!
Look for :usa1: below in DIY for another success story and associated Slideshow.
LJS_Law (Don from Alabama) was having a problem with his WS-55859...
as Don puts it as the lead-in of his thread: "OMG-I just fixed my TV (Mits WS-55859)..." (http://hdtvoice.com/voice/showthread.php?t=32186)

The Problem?..."the dreaded...flashing green light." (and what to do about it)
Check below for his story...and what this DIYer did to get his set working again.
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For owners of Mits WD-52525/52725/62525/62725:

Refer to Page 11 of this Owner's Guide (.PDF) (http://www.hdtvsolutions.com/pdf/MIT_WD-52525_WD-62525_WD-52725_WD-62725_Manual.pdf) for indicator light displays.
Click here (http://www.google.com/search?q=cache:Z1FFmuoMqjAJ:www.hdtvsolutions.com/pdf/MIT_WD-52525_WD-62525_WD-52725_WD-62725_Manual.pdf+Mitsubishi+WD-52525+owner's+guide&hl=en&gl=us&ct=clnk&cd=21) for HTML.

All other Owner's Guides...here (http://www.mitsubishi-tv.com/j/i/18344)
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LCD and DLP LAMPS
Click here for International Light Technologies (http://www.intl-lighttech.com/tvlamps)
"Try here for Osram lamps as cheap as I have found them."
HDTVoicer Icaillo (recent post) (http://hdtvoice.com/voice/showpost.php?p=186573&postcount=4)

For Mitsubishi replacement parts including lamps, remotes, & instruction guides:
Follow the instructions here (http://www.mitsuparts.com/)

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Here is a (Abnormal LED Indications) table taken from a Mits training manual for the
v26 (the DLP chassis) explaining blinking light color/sequence.
...... >>>Click here for Table<<< (http://h1.ripway.com/iautotron/MitsLEDindications-BlinksTable.png)
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Re: Mitsubishi WD-52525 Blinking Status Light:

Here's something that might also be useful. After you turn on the set, and get the regular red blinky lights, hold down the Device and Menu buttons together for about 5 seconds.
The Power light will start to flash in a two digit sequence.

For example, 3 flashes, then 7 flashes = 37.

Here are the error codes, and the corresponding problem:

12 = No error detected, check power supply.
32 = Lamp Cover is open.
33 = Air filter cover is open.
34 = Lamp abnormality
36 = Light Engine (DMD or Lamp Fan stopped)
37 = Exhaust or Lamp Ballast Fan stopped
38 = Lamp Temperature High
39 = DMD Temperature High
41 = Short is detected
44 = DVI cable between FMT and Engine disconnected
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Ref: WD-52525

From the Mits's service website a tech was gracious enough (or forgetful enough) to leave the following open on a computer. Now you can explain exactly what you think is wrong, before a service tech wastes their time and yours coming out (again), poking around like a blind man in a candy store, and leaving 2 hours later having accomplished nothing.
Maybe it'll help you avoid the same.
Model Number: WD-52525
Symptom: Shuts Down With Red Lamp LED
Cause #1

1.Unit powers on and works properly for a while then shuts off with a red lamp LED (lamp error). Suspect bad lamp part # 915P020010
2. Lamp enable line at J14 does not switch to 5 volts after turn on, 12 and 5 volt supplies are good. Suspect the Light Engine part # 939P977010
3. At power on the lamp turns on and off three times and then the unit shuts down with a red lamp LED (lamp error). Replace the Light Engine part # 939P977010
4. Check for 12-volts DC at J-9 connector pin 4 on the Engine Driver PCB, if missing check for an open F9A09 on the Power PCB, if it is open replace F9A09 part # 283P127060 and the Light Engine part # 939P977010
5. Lamp enable line at J14 connector on the Engine Driver PCB switches to 5 volts after turn on but does not go back to 0-volts (low) after 5 seconds, 12 and 5 volt supplies are good. Suspect the Light Engine part # 939P977010
6. Check for 5-volts DC at J-9 connector pin 1 and 2 on the Engine Driver PCB if missing replace the Power PCB part # 930B921002.

In this case, getting the 3 short blinks which indicate "DMD or Lamp Fan Stopped" and the error code 37, which seems to further support that.
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Another Mits owner's quoteable quote:
"I bought a WD-52525 a couple of weeks ago, and developed similar problems almost immediately. For the first several days, I had to hit the reset button about once or twice a day after it would spontaneously go dark with the blinky light giving me 3 short red flashes, then one long one.
From what I can tell, it probably indicates a bad lamp fan, or lamp fan power supply."

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**Before performing ANY service yourself (ya know, like then "voiding" a warranty) when you are under such warranty, the best advice would be to call the dealer where you purchased the unit for advice on what to do. They might give you advice you can try or schedule a warranty service call.**

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And this from an HDTVoice Forum member:
"I have a Mits WD-52725 with a blinking red status light. I had a tech come out today and he said it was a problem with the power being transfered thru the TV. I think he said it was a bad power supply or conducter. Either way he said the whole part will have to be changed. With labor and parts its $350...he also said the TV will eventually stop turning on after a month or so if not repaired." (quoted estimate is from the San Fernando Valley area of California)
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Are you a DIYer

...and handy with a soldering iron?

Is your set exhibiting any of these problems:

"I get the green Timer LED on for about 3 seconds when I press the power button, and then it powers back off."

"I have a Mitsubishi WD65513 that had a blinking green power Led and the set would not come on."

"I get the green Timer LED on for about 3 seconds when I press the power button, and then it powers back off."

"I had the exact same problem with my WS-65611 set."


**Possible cause: **You may have a bad DM Module!**
It is highly likely the root cause of the failed DM Module could be the
blue, electrolytic PTH Capacitors on the board...

IMAGES

***GOOD 1000uF 16V 105C Caps in position*** (http://www.fixya.com/Uploads/Images/362AB19.gif)

***BAD or PUFFY 1000uF 16V 105C Capacitors*** (http://www.fixya.com/Uploads/Images/483ECC9.gif)

"The TV technican said it was a bad DM module...
...he replaced the PWB DM Board Part # 955C230002."
(NOTE: P/N may vary with different sets and models)

DM Module Part Numbers for xxx13 GOLD series Sets:
(There are two versions of this board)
934C067002 ASSY-PWB-DM: WS-55813, WS-65713, WS-65813 and WS-73713
934C067001 ASSY-PWB-DM: the remaining xxx13 models.

**Possible solution: Read >>this HDTVoice thread<< (http://hdtvoice.com/voice/showthread.php?t=18816) for some how-to hints on repairing your Digital Module (DM) Board:
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>>>JUST ADDED<<<

EXCLUSIVE FOR MITSUBISHI GOLD SERIES MODEL WS-65513
as well as: WS-48513, WS-55513, WS-73513

The complete How-to Guide
Mitsubishi WS-65513 Digital Module Board Capacitor Replacement
Created exclusively for HDTVoice.com by HDTVoicer PhishJY

Access the guide HERE (http://www.jyerdon.com/tv/)

How-to Guide is complete start to finish, including step-by-step DM Module removal instructions, images, tools, etc...everything you need on how to remove and repair a DM Module with suspect or puffy blue Jamicon electrolytic PTH Capacitors.

**Remember that the use of these instructions or any others at HDTVoice.com you decide to use to perform your own repairs is at the user's own risk**
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"Wait! before I start...what's the inside of one of these sets look like?"

Let's take a brief visual tour to the rear of a WS-65613, the location of the DM Module PN 934C067001 and the DM board itself showing the four capacitors that need to be changed for this repair: (click here) Slideshow viewing of DM Power Supply (http://img141.imageshack.us/slideshow/player.php?id=img141/1354/117360497281p.smil)

(Thanks to HDTVoicer Nexusx for providing the images after successful repair of his WS-65613 and DM Module.)

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"OK, I want to do the repair myself, but how do I begin?"

Read through this "FixYa" how-to before starting any disassembly or repair of your WS-55813 or other Mitsubishi RPTV DM Module for a complete understanding of DM Module removal, puffy cap I.D., tools, manuals, etc.

>>>Mitsubishi DM Board Repair Guide<<< (http://www.fixya.com/howto/h159332-mitsubishi_dm_board_repair)
(thanks to nasawest (http://hdtvoice.com/voice/showpost.php?p=184768&postcount=52) for bringing this excellent repair guide to our attention)

NOTICE: As of May 11,2008 the above link is no longer available and hopefully it will be replaced with a newer one shortly.

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:usa1: >>>NEW Success Story & Repair Progress Slideshow<<<

As mentioned at the beginning, Voicer LJS_Law was facing either a $1000 repair bill OR putting out as much as $4500 for a new set.
After reading through the threads here, he decided to go ahead and R/R the blue 1000uF 16V 105C electrolytic capacitors on his DM Module....and....

let's let Don tell you his story in his thread (containing very detailed rework instructions):
"OMG! I just fixed my TV (Mits WS-55859) Thanks everyone." (http://hdtvoice.com/voice/showthread.php?t=32186)

Then check out the SLIDESHOW (http://img19.imageshack.us/slideshow/player.php?id=img19/8374/11846182716ow.smil) which contains the pics he supplied that tracked his progress through to a successful conclusion AND a working set.

WTG Don!! :rockon: your success story might have just inspired others that were considering doing their own repair but were hesitant to do so.

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**How much could I save by DIY? (poster's comments)

"...the TV is only about 2 years old and they said it'll cost $900+ to fix."

"The repair cost will be between $500 and $1000. Mine was quoted at $850."

"I have a WS-65513 that was also diagnosed as a bad DM board. They want 1100 bucks for the repair."

"...I was then told it's looking towards the DM Module (the silver box to the left of all your input/output plugs, Which is your HDTV/CPU) Quote was about $1000 bucks."

"Thanks to the information posted about this type of problem I was able to repair my DM board. I replaced the four caps on my DM board and my set is now working again."
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MITSUBISHI OWNER'S GUIDES (ALL)
Free download (.PDF) here (http://www.mitsubishi-tv.com/j/i/18344/OwnersGuides.html?mid=118711)
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REPAIR MANUALS - SERVICE MANUALS - CAPACITORS

>>>To purchase a Repair Manual: (DOWNLOAD Approx. $29.00)
ManualsParadise.com (https://www.manualsparadise.com/AboutOurStore.do;jsessionid=5AC89A9DF59FF5E6BAEAE6 02C67994FE)

"Our repair manuals and user guides offer the most accurate and complete information available for your device. You won't find a better source of information, anywhere."
Enter your 1) Brand and 2) Model >>Here<< (https://www.manualsparadise.com/MainSearch.do)
(Thanks to HDTVoicer bcraig from this recent post (http://hdtvoice.com/voice/showpost.php?p=180367&postcount=19))

>>>To purchase a Service Manual: (DOWNLOAD Approx. $16.99)
ServiceManuals.net (http://www.servicemanuals.net/service.aspx)...(FAQ's) (http://www.servicemanuals.net/FAQ.aspx) or Call 1-800-566-1363

>>>Service Manuals, schematics, etc.<<<
ESI - eserviceinfo.com (http://www.eserviceinfo.com/) "Schematics 4 Free"

>>>Service Manuals-full online support for diagnosing your TV<<<
VSTORE.ca (http://servicemanuals.vstore.ca/)

>>>To purchase Capacitors: (at Approx. $.69 each)...
Centerpointe Electronics, Inc. (http://www.cpcares.com/) or Call 1-800-272-2737
(Thanks to HDTVoicer Richb1454 in this recent post (http://hdtvoice.com/voice/showpost.php?p=173299&postcount=87).)

Mouser Electronics (http://www.mouserelectronics.com/) or Call 1-800-346-6873
(Thanks to HDTVoicer bholt77 in this recent post (http://hdtvoice.com/voice/showpost.php?p=182567&postcount=14).)
"I bought my caps through Mouser.com... Part # 661-EKMGG160ELL102MJ ~$.50 EA.
Actually spent more on shipping than I did on the caps."

Click here (http://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine.aspx?FS=TRUE&Ntt=*661EKMGG160ELL102MJ*&N=1323038&Ntx=mode%2bmatchall&Ns=P_SField&OriginalKeyword=661-EKMGG160ELL102MJ&Ntk=Mouser_Wildcards) for direct Mouser.com link to order:
Part #661-EKMGG160ELL102MJ
Description: Mini Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - 105 Degree - 16volts - 1000uF - 10x16

You can also order Capacitors from Digi-Key.com (http://www.digikey.com/)
1-800-DIGI-KEY

NOTE: in most cases the original capacitors are 1000uF 16V 105C radial lead
and measure 10mm in diameter and 16mm tall.
Icaillo (HDTVoicer and Mits/Sony dealer service manager) says:
"....I use 25V caps when I replace them."

QUESTION: "But, just what is it that causes these caps to fail like this?"
Here's what Icaillo believes in his answer (http://hdtvoice.com/voice/showpost.php?p=182585&postcount=17) to that very question...

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More detailed technical information and general history of the bulging caps can also be found in this Wiki article: Capacitor Plague (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague)
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The following testimonials were gleaned from recent posts and may be helpful in determining what parts you might need for DIY repair if you own the particular set stated:

WS-55513..."Replaced the caps with some better ones and TV came back to life."
"I bought some caps from a TV repair shop...The caps he sold me were XICONS -40-+105degree C 1000uF 16v caps. They ran me $4 a piece." thread (http://hdtvoice.com/voice/showthread.php?t=30080)

WS-55513..."Wow, I have to say that you all have just saved me $1100+ on a fix for my MITS WS-55513...I was able to fix it for $8 and about 4 hrs of taking stuff apart and putting back together. Thanks to you all." post (http://hdtvoice.com/voice/showpost.php?p=171288&postcount=11)

WS-55613 (added 3/7/07):
..."I just fixed my Mitsubishi HDTV for $1.50 worth of capacitors. Saved me $998.50."
"The part number for the DM for a WS-55613 TV is 934C067001. Sears Online has it for $625."

WS-55613..."had the green blinking light problem. Today I tracked down 4 replacement caps and replaced them. I couldn't find the 1000uf 16V caps that were installed. I did find some 1000uf 25V that were a little taller but worked."

'WS-55813..."I have a WS-55813 and I ended up removing the DM module and taking it and the capacitors I bought online to a local tv repair shop. I couldn't desolder for my life, and this guy did it for me for $30 cash in about 10 minutes. Reinstalled it and the tv worked great (after tweaking)"

WS-55859..."I just fixed my WS-55859 set that is 8 years old. It went dead last week with the green blinking light of death. I ordered capacitors and just finished replacing them. The set now works fine. Cost $20 for capacitors and desoldering wick. Much better then $1400. Thats to all who supplied info on how to do the replacement."

WD-62825...Bad DM Board?...DM board, P/N 934C116001.

WS-65513..."I just recently experienced the dreaded fast blinking green lights on Monday and thought to myself, what the hell am I going to do. I went to an electronics store this afternoon and picked up (4) 16V 1000uf caps and followed some of the advice from this thread and what do you know, it worked!"
Thanks to AirUpThere in this post (http://hdtvoice.com/voice/showpost.php?p=175381&postcount=107)

WS-65869 Green Blinking Light o' Death: Mitsubishi..."I had the green blinking light of death on a Mitsubishi WS-65869 purchased April 2002: likely cause-a lightning-induced power outage. Estimated services charges: "... $300 to 'get started' plus parts ~$300+, if they're available."
Seven 105C capacitors later ($2.25 + shipping) from Mouser and it's fixed on the first try.
A sincere thanks to all who have made this possible."

WS-65869 BLOD Problem Fixed!!..."I ended up installing seven 1000uf 25v 105C capacitors. Total cost of this fix was less than $10 and I couldn't be happier. I thought that I was going to have to purchase a new tv."

Tech Tip o' the Day:
"If it is a Mitsubishi with a DM module, look for swollen 1000uF 16V electrolytic capacitors in the DM power supply. Change them if they are swollen. I use 25V caps when I replace them."
Thanks to Icaillo (HDTVoicer and Mits/Sony dealer service manager)

<><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>
.................................................. ...CAUTION:
It goes without saying, be sure you are proficient in electronic and PCB repair and know what you're doing before attempting any repairs yourself!

.................................................. .....NOTICE:
HDTVoice.com, or any of it's contributors, is NOT responsible for any damage as the result of any work you perform based on the DIY information you find here.
<><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>

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[mhn2]

I have a 55613 with the blinking green light problem. I had called 4 Mitsubishi authorized service centers and each one said I needed a new DM Module and was quoted an average repair cost of $750. After Googling Mitsubishi DM Module, I found this post on this site. I followed the incredibly detailed instructions on this page:

http://72.14.253.104/search?q=cache:IR8UeO3uRr0J:mysite.verizon.net/jrodda3/DM/+934C067001&hl=en&ct=clnk&cd=4&gl=us

I carefully pulled out the DM Module and replaced the 4 capacitors. I was thrilled to see that it worked! I was able to fix it myself with (4) 39 cent capacitors and spent a total of $1.69!!! :D :thankyou3 :D

[Bugsy47]

I am having a hard time with the manualstogo.com website. The link takes me to a camera site. Does anyone have the PDF they can send me?

[Telstar]

Very strange.

Take a look at the following links (I cannot vouch for any though):

This advertises a download of the full service manual in PDF for the WS-55613 for $14.50:
http://www.user-manuals.com/service-manual-MITSUBISHI-WS55613.html

Owner's Guide (not Service Manual) WS-55613 (PDF) click here (http://download.jazel.net/misc/filecache/fd/fddd93d6ede67d06760a95d0cbbfcae1_245-WS-65513.pdf)

This one also advertises a PDF download of the WS-55613 Service Manual:
http://www.nodevice.com/manual/newmans/V23_Service_Manualpdf/get15973.html

Let us know if you were successful and which one.

:)

[mhn2]

Has anyone downloaded the service manual for the WS-XX613? Is it worth the cost?

[brickerick]

Are the instructions here valid for WS-48513. I have the blinking green light and it probably is the DM module malfunctioning. I am having touble taking it out because the try to which it sits in is not budging. I cannot slide it out to remove the DM. Any help would be wonderful.

[pbretelson]

I have the WS-55515 with the dreaded green blinking light. The DM module on this unit is not in a metal box and sits horizontal instead of virtical. I pulled it out and found the 4 caps but they where not puffy. Has anybody had this problem with this model? :sightv:

[rcw193]

Just wanted to add my thank you. my father-in-law gave up his 65" mitz big screen b/c the repair man told him $800-$1000 to fix a DM mod. Googled mitz and DM mod. found your post and bought 4 caps at radio shack for $1.60/each. After rechecking the fit of the DM mod. TV is working good as new. Thanks agian for pictures and step by step instructions.

[Telstar]

Thanks agian for pictures and step by step instructions.
You're very welcome rcw193, it pleases me :) to no end that someone can benefit from the information in this thread and there have been many success stories like yours.

Let it be known however that for my part, I simply compiled many of the suggestions from so many Voicer's that have contributed to this Forum and decided to create this thread back in July of '05 (wow..almost two years?) in hopes there could be happy endings like the one you just told us about...
so, the credit certainly goes out to them (they know who they are, I mention as many as I can throughout my post).
I try and update as new information or suggestions are posted.

Congratulations for finding HDTVoice.com...obviously your experience so far has been a very rewarding one and I hope you stick around.

Telstar :cheers:

[Toaster]

I wish there was a DIY repair guide for the DLP model... WD-62525 :(

[Telstar]

I wish there was a DIY repair guide for the DLP model... WD-62525 :(
Not sure if there are actual "Do It Yourself" per se manuals available but,
you can get a Service Manual here (http://www.user-manuals.com/service-manual-MITSUBISHI-WD62525.html).

MITSUBISHI WD62525 - $14.99
It's a full service manual, and it's in PDF format. It contains circuit diagrams (schematics) etc. It also usually contains parts catalog. After placing order they'll send You download instructions on Your email.
(This product was added to their catalog on Monday 07 May, 2007.)

:)

[Darrin]

I have a Mitsubishi WD-65731 since Sept '06 :D and once a month the TV turns on but there's audio onle -no video, no fan, no lit lamp. If you keep hitting reset and hard power cycle the tv may get back to normal within 15 minutes or unto a hour :headb: . I've had two techs visit, since this is intermittent it doesn't happen when they're around (of cours). The first tech gave me a new lamp and took the tv off of energay saver mode (it happened again 3 weeks later). The last tech wasn't able to do anything but tell me how to retrieve the error code (hold down MENU+INPUT on the TV for 15 seconds) but he told me it can't be a thermister issue but maybe a light engine but he can't swap it out with proper testing (I don't want my TV in a shop for weeks or longer until it craps out just to get an error code). The flashing a pain to count because if you blink you'll miss something :whistle: . Seems I got a error 76 or 77, what do you gurus think this means??

Thanks in advance!

[Juice17]

I've got a WS-65511 with the green blinking light. I've done the rub fix to no avail. Took apart the DM module, but the caps looked good. These are the only two solutions I've found so far (minus calling a tech). Any other ideas?

[Telstar]

.
Hi,

Having a Certified Mitsubishi Repair Technician is without a doubt the best way to properly troubleshoot and fix a set...of course.

But, the solutions presented in this forum with replacing those "puffy caps" by a DIYer has saved a few owners hundreds of dollars...

However, when you follow the solutions (as you have) and the set still exhibits the same problem or failure, I think of only a couple of options or recourse remaining:

1) Replace those electrolytic blue caps anyway since you've already removed the DM...
(I'm not so sure that they absolutely and conclusively need to be "puffy" to be bad but, one of our resident experts can perhaps verify this).

2) If that still doesn't fix the problem, then "something else" is causing the problem and it might be time to call in an expert and bite the bullet.

Anyway, that's my two pesos from the
"For What It's Worth" department.

:)

[Tripoutski]

Wow…I wish that I checked back here a few weeks ago. My WD62825 had the flashing light issue for weeks (I had been so frustrated with it leading up to this outage that I just did not deal with it). Previous to this, the TV was progressively getting worse. Lines in the screen, TV Guide randomly choosing channels when flipping channels, PVR falling off-line and icon grayed out, and at least a monthly session in jumping through reset procedures to get it back on line.

After 2-plus years of referring my dealer to other people, it was them who stepped up to bat and got the local Mits rep to grant a warranty repair. I had all of my issues well-documented (which I recommend for everyone). Once the tech read my documentation he instantly said “Sounds like the DM board issue.” Issue? What issue? Indeed that is what he diagnosed and ordered (with a 1-month backorder). Backorder? That inferred to me that the part cannot be kept in stock? I do not have a warm fuzzy here.

Well, at least I did not. What I read here makes me feel much better. From what I read here I have little confidence that this repair will last more than another 2 years, but then again what I read here will help me keep it running for the 10-year life I was hoping to get out of it.

<rant>
For what it is worth, I am a lifelong Mits owner, generally getting their higher-end units. Mitsubishi has always had great service the few times that I needed it. I was glad to fork over the exorbitant price for the 62825 because I knew I could depend on them. Even at the beginning of ownership I called and received good service and overnight firmware updates at my request that addressed little issues.

And then came the questions about the PVR. It does not have the functionality that was promised (such as the simple concept of recording one channel while watching another). When I called Mits to ask when this was going to be address the tech was combative and informed me that it would never be addressed. I was surprised at this attitude.

When I called this last time for support, it seemed that the tech was not on location in Irvine, rather I was speaking to someone with a heavy accent working out of their home (or in an orphanage or other similarly distracting environment with a lot of kids). I was quickly referred to a local repair facility.

Hopefully this is not a sign of the direction of this company. I will, however, think twice the next time I get a serious TV.

Sorry for the rant, and thanks for the info. You guys rock and there is a lot of great info here.
</rant>

-Trip

[lcaillo]

I have always been a big fan of Mitsubishi, have serviced and sold the product for decades and had great support from them. I have to say that the attitude of folks there seems to be worse than ever. The outsourcing of phone support to Indonesia is the least of it.

[disker]

Many thanks for the information. I have the 55513 model. I took out the DM case. Replaced 4 caps and now the set is working fine.

:thankyou3

[Phinque]

All of you are my new Hero's!

I have a WS 55813 and have the same " Blinking green light" problem. I never even thought about fixing this on my own until I found this sight. My wife thinks I'm nuts for even trying but I'm not ready to shell out half the value of the TV on repairs and also not ready to throw out a $4K purchase 3 years after I bought it.

Here's where I'm at so far, I have the back of my set and I think I have located the DM module. The DM looks like it is attached to the circuit board that lays flat. I have ordered the Service manual and I'm waiting for the order to be proccessed so I can download it.

My question, is there a trick to removing the DM and will the service manual guide me on how to remove it?

[bcraig]

I woke up one Sunday morning (8/12/07) and turned on my Mitsubishi WS65813 big screen TV only to find a blank screen and the dreaded Green Blinking Status Light.

After doing all of the usual un-plug..wait...plug back in again and check all my connection routines I started to panic. Oh My GOD! I spent $4,374.96 at Good Guys December 29th, 2003 and less than 4 years later my TV will not turn on.

I turned to the internet and typed in Mitsubishi WS-65813 blinking green light and came across this form. After reading about all of the peple that had the exact same problem that I had, I started to feel better. (Sort of like if your sick and then the doctor tells you its only a flu, you start to feel better just knowing its not cancer or something)

Then I got scared again because I am no TV repair man, and I do not want to spend $750 to $1,250 for someone else to repair it. So I got brave and read everything I could and downloaded the pictures of the DM card and the 4 capacitors that need replacing. I carefully pulled my set apart, and when I got to the part of pulling out the DM card I got stuck.

Because I did not know what I was doing, I searched for the repair manual online and downloaded it from http://www.ManualsParadise.com for like $25. This gave me the details of how to pull the main electronics tray back so that I could get the DM card out.

Next was to find these Caps. Tried Radio Shack, tried a local electronics store...no luck. Then I went on line again and found a place in Huntington Beach (near where I work) and was able to get the caps for .22 each. (I got 8 so I have 4 for the next time).

Now I have everything, but I know that if I just put an iron to the leads that I could burn out other things if I am not careful. So I did some more research about solder irons and tips ect.. I told my boss the story, and he said why don’t you let one of our Assembly customers help you out. They do this for a living and can do it safely and fast.

My friends over at Revco Products in Garden Grove California did it in 10 min. I put the card back and had everything all buttoned up in about an hour. MY TV IS WORKING AGAIN!!!!!!!!

I am so relieved, and it is all thanks to the many people that took the time to share their experience on line.

Thank you everyone. :thankyou3

Regards,

BILL CRAIG

[Telstar]

WTG Bill,

You are indeed a resourceful soul, handling that situation rather nicely and
making a good decision to let an experienced electronic tech do the soldering.

One thing though, you might have saved yourself
another .88 cents by not buying those four extra caps :rofl2:

Hopefully you'll never need them and can hand them down to your grandkids.

Anyway, darn good job and thanks for letting us know.

:cheers:

[Phinque]

Here I sit watching my Mits 55813!

I ended up downloading the service manual and was able to get the DM out without much trouble. I spotted the problem Caps right away, they were rounded on the top.

I had a little bit of trouble finding the Caps. I found a store in Boulder Co. that had them but I had to purchase a bag of 100 assorted sizes that had the 4 Caps in the assortment that I needed. I could have purchased them over the Internet but wanted to get them quick. I may go ahead and purchase some spares over the Internet so I will have them in another 3 years.

This was the first time I have soldered so I took it slow. I found some great sites with pics on good techniques on soldering.

Once that was done I set the DM back in turned the set on, The Green Light of Death started blinking again and my heart sank. The wife was standing next to me a didn't say a word. Then, the light went out... I pushed the power button on and the set came on!!!!!!!!!!!!

Now the biggest miracle, I put the set back together and didn't have a screw left over!!!!!!!!!!! I did take alot of pics with the digital so I could reference where everthing went.

I want to thank all of you who have posted there information on this site, it helped a guy that can't fix a cup of coffee fix his big screen TV. I saved a bunch of money, learned some cool terms that sound cool when I'm telling my buddies what I did and I think I saw that look in my wifes eye... but I'll have to post that story on another site.

Thanks to all,

Phinque

[PJ29]

Don't know what to do now. I have a 52725 and got the lamp red button lit up so ordered a new one form laptops for less, installed it myself and it gave me the lamp red light again. I pushed device and menu buttons to get an error code and got lamp abnormality, WTF! I realize something else may be wrong with the tv but the lights and error code say lamp and it is friggin brand new! Called the closest "authorized dealer" and they said I should only use mitsubishi lamps and want double what I paid for the part plus an installation fee. I wanted them to just come out and see if anything else was wrong but they want $149 for a house call. Any help would be appreciated.

[lcaillo]

The most likely problem is that you pushed the connector on the lamp back through its clip. Many folks do this on these when inserting the new lamp.

Be sure that the lamp is an Osram OEM lamp with the same markings on the bulb as the original. If it is you are fine. If it is not return it and get the original lamp rather than a substitute.

You could also have a problem in the power supply giving this symptom.

[Chuck Drake]

I also had the blinking light problem just like the rest of you. I read all the info and purchased the service manual set as recommended. I'd made up my mind if the fix didn't work I'd simply purchase a new TV. I purchased the Mitsubishi because I owned a previous model for 17 years with no problems. I fact, I gave it away in perfect working condition because I could no longer live without a big screen. Purchased the Mistubishi because of my previous experience and look what happened. I intend to write to them to express my total disappointment with the product and the racket they have developed on the repair side. Paying a board swapper $500 to $1000 per hour is hardly fair.

I must say the repair took about 2 hours from start to finish.

It really sticks in my craw, I'm not opposed to paying a fair price for services rendered however. all the tools & parts required cost me just under $30 for something the authorized repair centers wanted to charge a minimum of $500 for and they had not even diagnosed the problem, $75 to $275 just to show up at my house, what a joke!

Who ever thought of this forum is an absolute genius and I take my hat off to you!

By the way - the guy who did the quick video showing where the DM board resides, etc. was a great help as well.

Anyway, thanks to all and have a great day!

[lcaillo]

Not all servicers charge this much for these repairs, some charge more. YOu should call around and try to find servicers who fix things at the component level and are reasonable abot pricing. There are a few things that you should consider, however, from the servicer's perspective. First, not every set is fixed by replacing the caps in the DM. If one sees the continuously flashing LED at reset, Mitsubishi's recommended procedure is to replace the DM, not repair it. They offer no support for component level repairs on these mofules, and many don't even have ful schematics. For the servicer, this makes the repair procedure a difficult decision. Take a chance at replacing the caps and maybe waste that time or just estimate the replacement of the board? Many servicers just take the lazy and less risky route, overcharge for the trip out and virtually no troubleshooting, and create the perception that we are all rip-off artists. Many of us are not and provide a reasonable service value and even provide DIY help to those like yourself for FREE online.

Now, $200 for a trip out to tell you that you need a DM is pretty lame. For not much more than that I would have fixed the set. $75 is a reasonable fee to come out and diagnose the problem, $200 is not, unless the travel time is excessive.

[PJ29]

The most likely problem is that you pushed the connector on the lamp back through its clip. Many folks do this on these when inserting the new lamp.

Be sure that the lamp is an Osram OEM lamp with the same markings on the bulb as the original. If it is you are fine. If it is not return it and get the original lamp rather than a substitute.

You could also have a problem in the power supply giving this symptom.

I did not check what kind it was but I don't recall that name. I took it out of the housing and put the new lamp in the old housing and got the same result. I did not push the connector back, I double checked, it has a block on both sides to prevent this. The cheap company tried hard to sell me on the "it can't be our lamp, it should work" but I decided to pay to ship it back and a friggin restocking fee and I will now order from Mitsubishi. It is about $20.00 more expensive but if it works it is money well spent. I would rather do this than get, what I think, is another faulty bulb and have to pay another shipping and restocking fee.
Have you ever had the lamp abnormality lamp on any of your calls?

[lcaillo]

I have seen bad lamps, yes. I have also seen other problems such as a power supply needing repair. You should always stick to the OEM lamp. You are much more likely to get one that works.

[PJ29]

Thanks man, your help is much appreciated.

[chrisandnat]

I have fixed two of the newer TV's with the blink

My steps to fix:

http://www.chrisandnat.com/temp/BlinkingTV.pdf

[Telstar]

"I have fixed two of the newer TV's with the blink"
Nicely done Chris, your illustrated rework instructions gives the DIYer a very clear idea as to what he can expect when taking on this task. As well as in your post here, I'm going to add your contribution to Post#1 where first-timers will be able to review the package when first coming to this thread.

A couple of observations:

1) Specifically which Mits model is shown in the pics?

2) On Page 8, where you show the new caps after installation and, due to their size, the leads on one of them had to be bent on an angle to insert them for soldering, is there any possibility of the cans making contact with one another, possibly causing some shorting or cross-over?
I'm wondering as a precaution if a piece of Kapton or some form of insulation tape should be added where the two cans come into contact?

3) These are very minor and merely typos you may or may not choose to correct...

*On Page 2, just above the picture, is the text:
"Turn of the TV, and unplug.
Remove the back cover, should look as below:" (off)

*On Page 5 where you say:
"Unplug cables on top of the metal box, unscrew for screws holding the box down (2 in front, 1 on each side)." (four)

*On Page 7 where you say:
"Remove each of the four capacitors and replace them with the new capacitors, ensure you install the correctly. All four are installed in the same direction." (them)

Since all the models you reference are Series -13, for the purpose of anyone seeking an Assembly Drawing or Parts List, and based on the information provided by other contributors, here are the P/N's for the DM's:

DM Module Part Numbers for xxx13 series Sets:
(There are two versions of this board)
934C067002 ASSY-PWB-DM: WS-55813, WS-65713, WS-65813 and WS-73713
934C067001 ASSY-PWB-DM: the remaining xxx13 models.

Again, great job!

:)

[Lakeview]

Need help in fixing our WD62825 Mitsubishi. Any luck with Mitsubishi standing behind their product when out of warranty. We have the flashing green light and the tv does not come on. I have tried unplugging the tv from our Monster Box Home Theater Surge Protector and pushing in the reset button. Wipping off all the buttons in front like one of the messages suggested and still the tv does not go on and the light keeps flashing. We had this problem once before and last year it was still under warranty and Mitsubishi paid to have the DM board replaced. We are now experiecing the same green flashing light and the repair people are telling me (4 different service centers I have called) that it is the DM board once again needing replacement and the part is months out for backorder and will cost us $800 to $1000 to repair. Any luck contacting Mitsubishi - I have tried the tech support line that I called just over a year ago to ask for help and that number is no longer valid. Has anyone had any luck in Mitsubishi standing behine their product and paying for the repairs? I would hate to open up the tv and damage the tv by trying to fix it myself. Is there anyone out there that has repaired this model and any tips on removing the connectors and re-soldering? thank you for you help the tv is only 3 years old and we paid $5,000 - too much to discard, but service people say this will happen again if ever needing to unplug the tv set can do it.

[lcaillo]

Yes, Mitsubishi can be very good about compensation on OOW problems that are repetitieve and catastrophic. You need to be communicating with consumer relations and you need to be diligent and patient. My experience is that in the end, Mits takes care of their customers better than most, even if the process is clumsy and at times very frustrating.

This can be a more complicated problem than just changing the DM. There are several things going on in this chassis that we have not yet figured out. I just had one of this model that we did the following on:

Changed the bulging caps on the DM.
Changed the DM per Mitsubishi instructions.
Changed the EEPROM.
Changed the bulging caps on 4 boards in the set.
Changed the reset ICs
Changed the Signal Board.
After none of this worked the soloution was to replace the entire chassis, which came in defective with a bad EEPROM. Mitsubishi paid for the parts.

Unfortunately, Mits is not supporting component level repair on these boards and we have only limited block diagrams for some circuits, not complete schematics. This means that we are not able to figure out exactly what is failing and troubleshoot the sets very effectively. Additionally, they don't have enough of the boards and the chassis is on backorder. They won't tell us what they are doing to fix them, so we are largely stuck waiting for expensive parts like an entire chassis. Mits is eating parts and in some cases labor when we could be field repairing them much more effectively if we just had schemaitcs and some info. Stupid, short-sighted policies, IMO.

Keep calling customer relations, get file numbers, get tech log numbers from your servicer for any communication they have with Tech Support at Mitsubishi, get everyone's name that you talk to and keep good notes. Like I said, with patience and diligence, you can likely get some accomodation from Mitsubishi. How long the fix will last is uncertain.

Also, be sure that you are using the coaxial line protection on your surge protector, and be sure that your in coming lines are grounded according to electrical codes.

[nichoji]

Okay, I've been all over the net trying to find help to no avail. Please HELP!!! I've got a WD-52527 LCD. I got home and had a yellow blinking status light. I checked the filter cover and it's good. I unplugged the set overnight and it comes up in the morning. But it won't come on a couple of hours later. I unplug/replug the set and wait the allotted time. When I push the power button I get a blinking yellow status light AND a blinking green lamp light. I cannot find what this code means anywhere. I tried getting the code through using the Device/Menu buttons but I don't get consistant codes. One time I got 56 another I just got a 4.

Sorry for such the long post. I'm really frustrated. I hope someone smarter than me can figure this out.

[lcaillo]

56 code is a bad connection to the shutter, 44 code is connection of DVI cable to the engine, and yellow blinking is filter cover open. The only thing that these have in common is bad connections. I'd be checking the connections, particularly on the interfact board where all of the connectors plug in. I'd also be checking the PS.

[nichoji]

I have the service manual in hand. Once I crack the case should I be looking at the connectors on the chasis?

[BlkJk10]

Has anyone taken the DM module out of a 2005 or newer WD-52725? From what I've read here I need to replace the capacitors on this board. I've been out and purchased all the stuff to do the job, but after taking the back cover off and the grey metal plate I'm stuck. :headb: Anyone that can help would be great. Or should I just buy one of the online service manuals that folks here have mentioned?

Gotta get this fixed. Been without HDTV now for 3 weeks! :mecry:

P.S. Only caps I could find locally were 1000 uF 35V 85C? Will these work to replace the 1000 uF 16V 105C without causing issues somewhere else in the set?

[lcaillo]

The manuals are not much help. The disassemble on these sets is simply a PITA. Be very careful not to damage any wires, cut yourself on metal parts, or damage any of the ribbon cables.

[rev engineer]

P.S. Only caps I could find locally were 1000 uF 35V 85C? Will these work to replace the 1000 uF 16V 105C without causing issues somewhere else in the set?

Since you're going through the trouble of taking it apart, and since these caps are a problem area, you defiantly want 105C rated caps. 105C caps have a much longer life expectancy. Try to order some off the net. Digikey.com should stock them.

Any update on getting it apart or making the repair?

[BlkJk10]

Thanks. I'll have to order some caps then. As far as taking it apart, I haven't gotten beyond taking the back cover and metal cover plate off yet. From looking at it, it appears that it will require taking a bunch of crap :wow: apart to get to the DM module on this set. I'll try to post up some pics ASAP to show what it looks like.

[wundrmom43]

Thank you so much for the info on how to fix this common malady of Mit. TV's. Our set was resurrected from the dead at 10 am PST. thanks to the instructions posted on this site! We had to order the DM Capacitors from the Internet because Radio Shack here in our neck of the woods didn't have them couldn't tell us where to get them. Do you smell a conspiracy? It cost us about $30 to $40 for the parts shipping and a soldering gun. Thank you again :hyper:

[makeitsimple]

My HDTV model is WD-57731. It has no picture but you can hear sound in the back. The problem is when I turn it on the Status light blink faster for few second and turn stable for few second and go off. What might be the problem. No other light comes on.

[lcaillo]

Press Menu and Input simultaneously for 5 sec. If it flashes a two digit code other than 1-2, record and report it as it is a shutdown diagnostic.

[westie]

Wow!!!

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

:bow: I can't believe it worked! Thank you, Thank you, Thank you. After reading your fix for the blinking green light on my Mits WS-55513 I tried your suggestion to replace the four 1000uf caps on the DM board. I had to go to five different Radio Shacks until I found one that had the caps (slightly larger but they fit) but once I did and installed them the tv came back to life. The original caps on the DM board had only a slight bulge on top which was barely noticeable but when compared to the new ones there was a difference.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

[chain-veins]

i recieve no picture and when you turn it on it shuts itself off in a few seconds . the service code i get is 21 . can anyone shed light on what that might be ? Thank you for your time ...Cody

[kbman36]

i have a wd52627 with flashing green light
if i reset it many times i am sometimes able to get picture to come on
called tv tech out and he told me blaster module bad 800.00
i pulled out boards from the back and tighten some screws
put back together and turn set on
it came on and was working good till i pushed device button on remote
then remote stopped functioning and tv shut down
anyone think the capasitors are bad?
kbman36

[River Rat]

I just wanted to say thank you ,thank you, thank you !!

Four days ago my Mits 55513(born on date 10/03) went blinkin green. So I came here to read what was up and with the help from Chris's pdf file and this site

http://www.chrisandnat.com/temp/BlinkingTV.pdf

I fixed the dang thing for $85.00. I was qouted $550 to $650.

The caps were puffy but I couldnt really tell until I bought the new ones.
I also did not do the soldering. I took the DM board to a local yocal(Tom) god bless him. TLC electronics. He explained to me that I could do it myself but....
do you know exactly what your doing with the 2 sided board? I coward down and begged him to do it. He charged $85.00 out the door. Sears wanted $115.00 just to come out. There wrong half the time anyway.

So once again thank you, thank you, thank you.

RR

[cfred@cox.net]

Don't feel alone... My WS-55813 just got hit with the green light of death. Looks like a pattern here. I know everybody swears by Mitsu's, but this is my 1st one, and at $4,000 origionally, this hurts to put out $1k to fix it. I know I could do it myself, but I could probably do my own dentistry on myself too according to the internet.

Sorry Mitsubishi, I'm probably going to pick up a new flatscreen for the same price as a repair... But it definitly won't be a Mistubishi!

[lcaillo]

Why assume it is going to cost that much to fix it? This is typically a pretty easy fix for techs that go beyond just swapping boards and do their homework. Call around and ask if the various shops in the area are familiar with the problem and what they charge.

[Telstar]

NOTICE

The "Chris and Nat" .PDF link referred to in previous posts:
http://www.chrisandnat.com/temp/BlinkingTV.pdf

is no longer a working link and has been replaced by this one:
http://www.chrisandnat.com/Projects/BlinkingTV/blink.htm
(Note: You will need to unzip this file and open using MS Word and Adobe)

:)

[nichoji]

I posted a strange problem back in September. I had a yellow blinking status light and an error code of 56, bad connection to the shutter. I opened the case looking for loose connections and could not find one. I had to eventually take it to the shop. They said I my have had some loose connections internal to the engine. They reseated all connections and resoldered all the joints. It's working well now. Total cost of repair, $310.

[sgr2000]

I turned on my wd-y65 65" tv this morning. I was booting up, got the channel on the screen for a few seconds then it cuts out. At the same time as it cuts out the yellow lamp led and a red status led both come on at the same time then disappear after a half second, only to be replaced with a constant red blinking status light. I did the Error Code Operational Check and got an error code 37 (Engine (DLP) fan failed.). I looked in the tech manual and only found a ballast, exhaust and DMD fan. Does code 37 mean the DMD fan wont start up? Will replacing the fan fix it or is it something in the circuitry not turning the fan on?

:mecry:

[nasawest]

Here is a great step by step explanation of the DM fix. It's the only one I found where the pictures matched my 55813 almost perfectly:

http://www.fixya.com/howto/h159332-mitsubishi_dm_board_repair

[Telstar]

Here is a great step by step explanation of the DM fix.
http://www.fixya.com/howto/h159332-mitsubishi_dm_board_repair
One of the best DM Module repair guides we've seen so far...
I've added it to Post #1 as part of the DIY information.

:thankyou3

[nasawest]

Thank you, thank you, thank you. Another success story. It was this forum that I found first in my desperation to find someone with information regarding my blinking green light. Thanks to the information I found on this forum, tonight I am watching HDTV again!

[rolexguy101]

can anybody be so kind and give me the exact specs. for the dmd and lamp fan for a mit. wd-62725 im getting error 37:( red status light...

[lcaillo]

I do not know of any published specs but you can order them from the Mitsubishi parts department.
Lamp fan part #299P282010
DMD fan part #299P283010

[casabilka]

I purchased a WS-48513 in 2003. This week it started the green flashes of death. My local repair shop in Reno wanted $650 to fix the problem. Four new caps and we are back in business. Thanks guys!!!! The only problem with it working again - the wife won't let me get that new LCD set.

[caramelfemale]

I have a slightly different problem on a Mitsu HD1080 series VS50111 from Nov 2002. When you press the button to turn on the power, the green light displays for a few seconds and then cuts off like so many others noted. Never had blinking issue!! My question is, are there other instructions for my model like the big post for repairing the blinking lights? Also I pressed the menu & input to get the code & I get a 2-2 code which I could find no info on. When I press the power button afterwards, it still will not power on & stay on but it does stop the blinking. Please Help!!! Don't know if it is worth repairing if costs $500.

[lcaillo]

2-2 is short protect. Most likely a convergence output amp shorted taking out the + or - 24v supply.

[caramelfemale]

Thanks lcaillo for the info. What do I need to do to repair the issue? :stuckthum Which components do I need for the repairs? I find STK392-180, 100 and a bunch of others & I don't know which I need. Also, can I get them at a local electronics store & what do I tell them I need?
:headb:
Thanks to all for all the info provided everyone, this is a great place!!!

[lcaillo]

Your set uses the STK392-110. You need to replace them with the STK394-160, check the resistors and the pico fuses in the supply and realign the set. See the thread here for info including suppliers:

http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/manufacturers-service-support/5600-crt-based-rptv-convergence-repairs.html#post43725

[caramelfemale]

Thanks for the info & link to get the part. It must be hard to find because I am already to the F's on the list and no one has them so far. I'm still searching though.

[caramelfemale]

This is horrible!!! Can't find the parts. Found a Hitachi Kit 10 but it has the 150, not the 160. Is that ok?

Have been to all the links on Icaillo provided and finally found something thanks to thread on Hitachi about convergence issue

http://www.hdtvoice.com/voice/showthread.php?t=28929

Any answers or other suggestions greatly appreciated :bow:

[Jen_Kenne]

Thank you to Telstar and the other contributors. This is a fantastic DIY resource. I note Icaillio suggestion that power surges may contribute to the problem, and wonder how many have some sort of UPS and/or surge suppressor protecting their unit.

[caramelfemale]

Does anyone know the Hitachi kit # that comes with the stk394-160 IC's & which 1 I need for the above tv? I found the individuals but I can't locate them in a kit

[lcaillo]

Please do not double post. Your question has been answered in the thread that you posted.

[Terminator]

Just got the 73" WD-73733 and after one week it got the blinking green light of death. :(

Went to turn it on last night to watch a movie and got the blinking light of death that would not go out.

Resetting it, leaving it unplugged overnight, plugging it into a different outlet- tried all these and nothing helped.

The set was plugged into the surge suppressor.

Was hoping to get advice on what to try next. This is a brand new set and I would not want to try taking the set apart and changing capacitors just yet if there is something else that I could try.

The posts I have been reading have had their sets fail after 2 or 3 years and I could see them having overheated capacitors, etc. then, but this should not happen to a brand new set.

Please help. :sightv:

[Telstar]

"Just got the 73" WD-73733...This is a brand new set."
Why would you want to take it apart if it's a "brand new set"?
What about your Warranty (http://www.mitsubishi-tv.com/j/i/18312/Warranties.html)?
Big Screen televisions: Thirty days on screen, one year on all other parts. One year on labor. In-home service on all models.

I don't think you'd want to "try taking the set apart and changing capacitors" without going through that process first...in light of the fact that this could potentially VOID said Warranty

:)

[cptkatz]

hi:

After reading this thread, I have decided it may be best to sell my WD-62825 that has no picture and a blinking light.

maybe someone more expereinced can fix it and have nice tv

TV is in South Florida zip code 33037 pick up only

any thought on replacing the broken tc with the new Mitsubishi WD-65734 Medallion 65'' 1080p Rear Projection DLP HDTV

Thanks
Steve

[jerryhenline]

I have a model WS-65613. Same constant blinking light issue. I fooled the advice. Chris actually had step by step pictures that was great. I replaced the caps, but unfortunately, no change. Still have the blinking light and no power. Any other ideas?

[jojeca]

I have a 3 year old Mitsubishi WD-52825, it has been at the repair shop since early Dec. 2007. It had the blinking green light problem and needs a DM Board (Part # 934C116001) in order to be fixed. Factory keeps moving the shipping date of the Board back. It is now estimated to be shipped 3/15/2008, this is like my 5th estimated ship date. Does anyone know why they don't have enough boards? It seems as they have known about this issue for a long time and they are doing nothing about it, any comments?

[Telstar]

"...any comments?
That's waaay too long to be without a set. :whistle:

BTW...is this a warranty repair?

Ok, here's an idea...
Would your repair shop be willing to try the repair that has worked for many set owners with DM board problems...to R/R those questionable Jamicon 1000uF 16V 105C radial lead caps discussed earlier?
As long as they're convinced the board needs to be replaced anyway (and there's no replacement on the way), might be worth a try.

Now, I'm not sayin' the problem lies in those caps but, who knows?
They could change the caps and test the DM right there in the shop.

Perhaps you might Print this out (http://www.fixya.com/howto/h159332-mitsubishi_dm_board_repair) and show it to them.

and (for your own edification) read this (http://hdtvoice.com/voice/showpost.php?p=182585&postcount=17) for an explaination as to what happens to cause those caps to fail.

also...a wise man once said:
Icaillo (HDTVoicer and Mits/Sony dealer service manager):
"....I use 25V caps when I replace them."
(but, don't push your luck trying to sound smarter than them...
just offer "suggestions".

Might be worth a try...

I'm just sayin' :)

[lcaillo]

I have a 3 year old Mitsubishi WD-52825, it has been at the repair shop since early Dec. 2007. It had the blinking green light problem and needs a DM Board (Part # 934C116001) in order to be fixed. Factory keeps moving the shipping date of the Board back. It is now estimated to be shipped 3/15/2008, this is like my 5th estimated ship date. Does anyone know why they don't have enough boards? It seems as they have known about this issue for a long time and they are doing nothing about it, any comments?

Your servicer may not be a Mitsubishi ASC. If they are they should know that bulletin VS-78A clearly states that the caps should be checked before replacing the board. They would also know that Mitsubishi has run out of the boards and that they ned to send the board in for repair and return. There may be more boards available as the duds come back and they repair them, but in the meantime, R&R is the way to get it done.

[Kangaroo]

I've got the above numbered Mitsu model. Its power LED flashes when plugged in; no operation. I cannot figure out how to get the DM board out of the chassis. These models with the V26 chassis are very different from the WS CRTs, so those instructions are not helpful. Has anyone performed the DM capacitor repair on a V26 chassis? If so, would you share how you get the DM module out of the chassis?

Thanks :)

Neil

[neals]

I took my WD-52525 apart and found 6 bad caps. I have not completed the repair yet but here is a link to photos of the various boards and the problem caps:

http://www.fixya.com/support/t155026-flickering_blue_picture

[jimwhitehead]

I have desperately tried everything from power off and power on sequences and was hoping after downloading what I thought was the correct service manual for my WS-65515 HD Mitsubishi t.v. I went to Radio Shack to purchase the 4 capcitors for the DM Module. However, after opening the back of my t.v. I do not appear to have a DM Module. Is there something I am missing? I have looked throughtout the net for an illustration of my t.v. but was unsuccessful. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Sincerely,

Jim W.

[bryanff]

I also have the green blinking light of death. While checking the Mits. TV website however I noticed that they have extended the warranty period for two years on several models, some for the optical engines (only the 73--- models) and others for a thermal switch replacement (WD-52631, WD-57731, WD-65731, WD-Y57, WD-Y65, WD-57732, WD-65732, WD-57831, WD-65831). Would a good repair shop be willing to replace the caps on the DM board while the TV is taken apart for the thermal switch? Is the thermal switch on the DM board?

Link to Warranty http://www.mitsubishi-tv.com/j/i/18312/Warranties.html?mid=133477

[jojeca]

:boo2: Update, shop replaced DM Board, worked for acouple of hours, green light is flashing again. Mitsubishi :sleeping: says they will replace set since it was on extended warranty.

[neals]

I took my WD-52525 apart and found 6 bad caps. I have not completed the repair yet but here is a link to photos of the various boards and the problem caps:

http://www.fixya.com/support/t155026-flickering_blue_picture


To follow up, I replaced all 14 caps using the following parts from Mouser:

647-UHE1A332MHD (Nichicon 10V 3300uF)
140-HTRL16V1000-RC (Xicon 16V 1000uF)

I reassembled the TV and it is working fine again.

[xterra4x4]

I have a question. Is the wd-y57 the same tv as the wd-57732? I haved owned my wd-y57 tv since 10/26/07, and just last night we were watching a movie and the picture went out, still had sound but no picture. Wife said she saw a red light on the front panel but then it went out. Now there is no lights on the front panel. So this is what I have--tv power button flashes then stays on(like normal) then all we get is sound but no picture, with no lights on front panel. Is it a bulb? Gonna cal Mits Monday morning.

[ahawkins]

I also need to remove the DM board but all the pictures I have come across the DM boards look placed different then my ws55311 55 inch TV. Where is this one and how do I remove it? I am desperate after a lighening strike, I have had to replace everything but would feel a bit better if I could at least save my TV. Any help would be highly appreciated as in the middle of no where it's up to me or not at all.

[lcaillo]

You will have trouble finding the DM, since your set does not have one. If you have had a lightning strike you need a good tech who is capable of detailed troubleshooting. It is unlikely that it will be a reasonable DIY project.

[ahawkins]

Question. If this model doesn't have a DM board whare are the capacitor located and can I check them? It is doing the 2-2-2-2-2 blinking error code when I test it from the front buttons. No tech in this area or even remotely near so it's up to me. Is there anything I can do to test and fix? Thank you for your patience.

[lcaillo]

There are capacitors all over that you might need to check. You need to do some troubleshooting to narrow it down. 2-2 code indicates a short protect. Something is pulling a supply line low. Most common problem would be a convergence output IC. Could be other things. Troubleshooting is needed.

[BlkJk10]

Finally updating my progress. After several months of being pissed and looking at the set not working, I ordered the caps and proceeded to take it apart. It was a royal PITA and finally got fed up. Called a local service place and they quoted me $320 to come to the house, replace the caps, do some Mit upgrades, and fix the set :bow: . After two hours this morning, we came to the conclusion that the DM board has to be replaced and he said "it's junk and not worth fixing." :headb: So that ends my saga and now I look to buy a new set. Deciding to go with an LCD (Sony Bravia) and having it hung over the fireplace (which sees little to no use here in Texas). Will never buy a Mit again. The service tech said that both plasma and DLP sets will be phased out, and suggested to get a LCD.

[ahawkins]

Got a hold of a service manual. it has soem basic pictures along with a lot of schmatics. Two things I notices while examining the board is there is one spot that looks as if it has turned purple in color about the size of a quarter, I plan to magnify this to get a better picture but most elusive to me is there are some what appear are around 1/2 inch high plastic tubes with what looks like grey putty in them, what are these? There is one that the putty doesn't look formed as nicely as the others, looks like it has sunk in the middle, any clue what I'm looking at? Thank you again! Not giving up yet!

[Telstar]

Called a local service place and they quoted me $320 to...
come to the house
replace the caps
do some Mit upgrades
and fix the set
"IF", and I say if, the guy did all of the above (I presume he did his own troubleshooting) and actually got the set working, that would have been a bargain at $320 from what others have quoted as the cost of repairing similar problems on their Mits (up to $1000 and more).

Too bad we didn't have a happy ending here :mecry: but nice try anyway.

:)

[BlkJk10]

He did in fact do all his own trouble shooting. I watched him replace the caps and put it all back together. Still nothing. So in the end it cost me $75 for him to come to the house and work on it for 2 hours. Yeah, the quote of $320 to do all that was the only reason I even bothered. Now moving on to a new LCD.

[azmpire]

Hey,
I hope someone will be able to help me out with this huge mess I got myself into. I have a Mits WD-62825 that got the blinking green light thing so I decided to take it apart and look at the DM board. I had this issue once before on my WD-52525 and I replaced a few bad caps and it was good to go. So I removed the DM board from the 62825 and saw four bad caps. I replaced them and the tv was still doing the same thing. So I decided to pull all the boards out of the tv and surely enough ever board in that metal box had at least two bad caps. So now and in the process of replacing the caps but I'm doubting that I can put everything back together. I have loose wires all over the place so what I need is a wiring diagram. I have the service manual and there isn't anything about wiring in there. All the connectors are lettered so I'm assuming there had to be a diagram out there somewhere. Please help me out.
Thanks,
Jake

[endot800]

Hey,
I hope someone will be able to help me out with this huge mess I got myself into. I have a Mits WD-62825 that got the blinking green light thing so I decided to take it apart and look at the DM board. I had this issue once before on my WD-52525 and I replaced a few bad caps and it was good to go. So I removed the DM board from the 62825 and saw four bad caps. I replaced them and the tv was still doing the same thing. So I decided to pull all the boards out of the tv and surely enough ever board in that metal box had at least two bad caps. So now and in the process of replacing the caps but I'm doubting that I can put everything back together. I have loose wires all over the place so what I need is a wiring diagram. I have the service manual and there isn't anything about wiring in there. All the connectors are lettered so I'm assuming there had to be a diagram out there somewhere. Please help me out.
Thanks,
Jake


You can order the SM from here for only $5.79
http://cgi.ebay.com/MITSUBISHI-WD-62525-WD-62725-WD-62825-SERVICE-MANUAL-26_W0QQitemZ300208505504QQihZ020QQcategoryZ71585QQ rdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638 Q2em118Q2el1247

[alexuniko]

I Have the same problem with the green light flashing when i power on my tv. It flashes for about 3 sec. and then shuts off. I have A Mits. WS-65711, i checked the DM Board and the model # on it is as follow, Model WS-65511 DM-0230. I checked the caps and they seem to look Ok. If they are OK, What else could be the problem that keeps my set from powering on?

[nasawest]

heytelstar I tried to send you a private message but your inbox is too full. So anyway it was just brought to my attention that the website with the repair guide that I posted has been removed. I have it in a word file with pics and all but not sure how to get it on here. Please send me a private message letting me know how to share this info. I think it's helpful to other DIYer's

[Telstar]

"...I tried to send you a private message but your inbox is too full."
I have cleared my message box and it's back open for business.

I've also sent you a PM so you can go ahead and contact me.

Thanks for letting me know.

:)

[lcaillo]

I have found that it is futile to try to repair the V26 chassis sets unless you at least replace all of the Jamicon radial caps of 330uF or larger. There are usually some SMD caps on the DM that are bad as well. Here is a link to the caps that I usually find bad or marginal, or that tend to swell.

http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/manufacturers-service-support/11045-mitsubishi-v26-chassis-1st-gen-dlp-capacitor-failures.html#post97583

[mune237]

THANK YOU ALL!!!
Went and pulled DM board, and replaced those (4) JAMICO capacitors.
TV's up and running.
The hardest part was finding the right sized capacitors
Just for ref: my set was built Feb2004
and I have NEVER soldered before

[Evansindy]

I had the blinking green light problem with my 2004 WS-55613, replaced the capacitors as described and it worked! The TV has another life. Thanks guys. Now, can anyone tell me how to improve the picture? It isn't as clear as it was. I did the advanced convergence settings, but it still seems less shar than before. Any suggestions on cleaning the lenses or mirror?

[Telstar]

"Now, can anyone tell me how to improve the picture?
Any suggestions on cleaning the lenses or mirror?"
Something you might consider is calibration by a qualified ISF Technician since
proper calibration is the way to get the best image out of your system and
typically includes cleaning of the lenses/mirrors.

This could run you around $300 depending on the service you engage.
It is also possible to use a setup DVD like AVIA or DVE and do your own
calibration to get very good settings.

Do some investigation before deciding.

Here are some topical Forum links that might help you decide:
ISF Calibration - Discuss here (http://www.hdtvoice.com/voice/forumdisplay.php?f=114)
Calibration Explained (Video) (http://www.cnet.com.au/tvs/lcd/0,239035307,339273712,00.htm)
DIY Calibration (http://www.cnet.com.au/tvs/0,239035250,339281240,00.htm)

Hopefully, some of our "resident experts" will chime in with their opinions
on this topic also.

:)

[crew76]

Save me a thousand bucks too!!!!!!!!! Thanks! Now I'm getting a wavy picture , any ideas there? I've heard that it is possibly the 9v regulator at ic9c25 location.

[Telstar]

Hi all, :wave:

Just want to invite everyone to visit Post #1 (http://www.hdtvoice.com/voice/showpost.php?p=123848&postcount=1) and the DIY section and check out the newly added How-to Guide recently completed by HDTVoicer PhishJY who himself discovered his own set, a 2004 Gold Series WS-65513, exhibiting the "blinking light of death" and after visiting some of the threads here at HDTVoice.com set out to try and do his own, ultimately successful, capacitor repair of it's DM Module and document in detail all the steps along the way.

His Guide is complete with clear, easy to follow instructions, hi-resolution photos and even a list of tools, their sources and prices so that the DIYer has everything he/she needs to get started with their own repair.

A big THANK YOU to PhishJY for this excellent How-to Guide. :thankyou3

:)

[nouseforaname]

I was looking around for 25v capacitors (http://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine.aspx?Ntt=*661EKMGG250ELL102MJ*&N=1323038&Ntx=mode%2bmatchall&Ns=P_SField&OriginalKeyword=661-EKMGG250ELL102MJ&Ntk=Mouser_Wildcards) and I couldn't find anything that was 10mm x 16mm. I found something that's 10mm x 20mm. I'm not sure how big of a difference that is but it's possible it might fit into the DM power board after you put the cover back on and close it. I could be wrong about some detail there but check it out.

I didn't really know much about capacitors until I read somethings on this forum. I don't know why 25v would be better, it's just more voltage going to the tv. My guess is so that if there's ever a surge, it has a chance not to blow but I could be wrong.

Thanks for the DIY instructions. I have a WS-55909 sitting infront of me right now with the DM Module taken apart and the capacitors out of the board ready for the new ones to be soldered in. I'll post after I get the capacitors from that website above but I ordered the 16v ones, not the 25v. To be safe, I ordered 14 just incase they blow again. They are pretty cheap so why not.

Radio Shack sadly doesn't have these. I went there myself and they had 1000µf 30v 105° and the capacitor size was huge. It'd be impossible to fit on the board. They were $1.39 a piece. Still, it's anyone's choice to get whatever. I'm just not sure about the voltage being so high since I don't know the difference.

[lcaillo]

Changing the voltage rating on the cap does not send more voltage to the set. The rating on the caps is the max that the cap can sustain reliably. Increasing it simly gives you more of a safety gap for the application. The only problems that increasing voltage ratings can cause are with physical size and ESR(impedance). If you use long life low impedance caps, there should be no problem. You can find a variety of sizes in high quality capacitors at DigiKey or Mouser.

[mdupar]

After a lot of frustration concerning the flashing green light, I found your site, and following your instructions, I fixed the problem by going into the DM module, and replacing the seven 1000uF 16V capacitors.
Thank you guys so very much for having this information available.
I thank you. My family thanks you. Trust me, I would have been dead if I had not fixed the TV. :thankyou3
Michael

[gruenerw]

I just finished replacing 6 CAPs on my power board after having the flashing green power led symptom.

After putting the set back together I get the steady red status led and the error code indicates 41 (short detected).

Any suggestions.

PS. I replaced two caps on the power board 6 months ago and the TV worked fine after words.

[gruenerw]

Duplicate

[PeaceRocker]

I have the WS-55515 with the dreaded green blinking light. The DM module on this unit is not in a metal box and sits horizontal instead of virtical. I pulled it out and found the 4 caps but they where not puffy. Has anybody had this problem with this model? :sightv:

Mine were not puffy but changed them as suggested by this repair website/manual http://www.chrisandnat.com/temp/BlinkingTV.pdf

Very easy and simple. Just make sure the pos (+) on all the capacitors go into the wholes that have the colored circle.

Peace
carlos

[NMathes]

I am so thankful for this forum. I am a victim of the dreaded blinking light. My husband just removed our DM Module. We are having someone replace the capacitors tomorrow. Stay tuned to see if your magic works. The quote I received to repair the problem was $177 to come out and diagnose and $1212 to repair it. She knew the problem instantly and gave me the quote over the phone. I pray this works for us. Our TV is 3-1/2 years old.

[Telstar]

$177 to come out and diagnose and $1212 to repair
Yikes! :eek:
That's a fairly hefty repair bill.

We'll be curious as to what you were charged for the parts/caps R/R.
Share any details with us that you can about any problems you or the
tech encountered getting the repair done.

Good luck! :)

[CokeQueen91]

My Mitsubishi WS-65612 tv is messed up,it wont come on and the light in front is blinking none stop,:( need help!!!!

[m21att1]

I pulled out my board this evening, having the same trouble as described here. Glad I found this site! I'm going to call up a repair shop close by and see what they will charge me to solder the capacitors on the daughterboard for me. I would do it, but would feel more comfortable if a professional does it. If they are reasonable then I'll have them do it, otherwise I'll just do it myself. Here are a few pictures of my caps.

[Telstar]

"I would do it, but would feel more comfortable if a professional does it."
A very wise move if you don't have tech or soldering experience.

Your image does look as though the caps are "puffy" as in this shot...

Puffy Caps (image) (http://www.fixya.com/Uploads/Images/483ECC9.gif)

FYI: Why do these caps fail? (http://hdtvoice.com/voice/showpost.php?p=182585&postcount=17)

Notice where Icaillo specifies:
"All of the bad caps have been the same make, Jamicon, and most have been the same value, 1000uF."

So you might want to check with the technician who will be doing the R/R and make sure he's not using Jamicon.

Let us know how it goes.

:)

[m21att1]

A very wise move if you don't have tech or soldering experience.

Your image does look as though the caps are "puffy" as in this shot...

Puffy Caps (image) (http://www.fixya.com/Uploads/Images/483ECC9.gif)

FYI: Why do these caps fail? (http://hdtvoice.com/voice/showpost.php?p=182585&postcount=17)

Notice where Icaillo specifies:
"All of the bad caps have been the same make, Jamicon, and most have been the same value, 1000uF."

So you might want to check with the technician who will be doing the R/R and make sure he's not using Jamicon.

Let us know how it goes.

:)

I come from a network engineering background and I have soldered before, but not enough to be proficient. If I can get someone to do it for me for a decent price then it's worth it for my peace of mind. I'll report back with details as soon as I know.

[NMathes]

Just wanted to give an update...

:thankyou3 :thankyou3

If you can't already tell, we are...

Cooking with gas.

This forum is AWESOME!!!!!!!!! We replaced those capacitors and put the board back and the green light blinked for few seconds and went out (as it should). Hit that POWER button and that TV popped right on.

We used 25V capacitors and we had someone else solder them for us. The capacitors were $3.49 each.

We are novices at this whole thing. This forum gave us the courage to take apart the TV. So we are thankful for all the info and pics that have been provided. This has saved us a ton of money. :bow:

[dfranke]

I'm replacing puffy caps on my 52725 tomorrow. I don't know what else I would do if the fix doesn't work, but I'm tempted to power on the set after I replace the power board with the new caps and re-connect the connectors, but before I completely bolt up the TV. I feel like if there's maybe something else I could try (should this not work) or if I have to get a repair person out here to further diagnose my problem it would be easier if we didn't have to spend the time it takes to deal with the dozens of screws that hold the back of this set together.

Has anybody with the 525, 725, or 825 series made this fix and tried it out before fully bolting it all back together? Am I just begging for further problems?

[lcaillo]

If you have bulging caps, change them. It is a crap shoot, however. You could have a few or you could have hundreds just about to fail.

[dfranke]

That is the plan. The caps I'm replacing are on the power board. Can I try powering it back on before I re-attach the shield for that board? I'll certainly put all the connectors back in place.

[kromex]

I have a 52825 and did the DM board capacitor fix. I had the flashing green light prior to the fix. After the fix, my TV goes through the standard flashing green light process, then it goes off. I proceed to turn the TV on and it appears to come on with a steady green light but I get no picture. What could I have done wrong during the fix?

[Telstar]

"After the fix, my TV goes through the standard flashing green light process, then it goes off."
Could be a lot of things but let's get this out of the way...

1) have you tried hitting the reset button on front?
2) unplug the tv, let it sit overnight and try again?

If these don't do it then we will await further suggestions.

Good luck!

:)

[blake mcdonald]

i have a question, were the capasitors on the dm modular swolen? if there not to you still think its worth changing out or do you think it is wise to get it checked? my tv just stopped working and now all i see is the flashing green light. from reading all the forms, most of the problem deal with those copasitors. what do you think i should do? :sherlok:

[Telstar]

"what do you think i should do?"
It's a tough call because unless someone who is a qualified ASC service repair technician, after trouble-shooting the TV and finds the DM Module failed and those caps are the culprit, it's a shot in the dark as far as advising you on what to do.

But, like has been mentioned elsewhere in this thread, Voicer LJS_Law was facing either a $1000 repair bill OR putting out as much as $4500 for a new set.
After reading through the threads here, he decided to go ahead and R/R the blue 1000uF 16V 105C electrolytic capacitors on his DM Module.

His choice ended in success as he points out in his thread (http://hdtvoice.com/voice/showthread.php?t=32186) that you may already have read through.

He points out: "Note: When you view your capacitors for the first, They (might) not appear to be damaged or puffy."

So, it's basically your choice. If you have the skills for removing and replacing electronic components on a PCB then it might be worth changing out the caps and worse case, you'd have to call in a technician if it turns out to be something else. If you do need to call in a technician, be sure and let him know that you tried to fix it yourself so he can check out the work you did to rule out any problem there.

:)

[ohheck]

My son just had his Diamond vision rptv (about 5 years old..don't know the model #) repaired. He had the blinking green lights. The repairman replaced the capacitors and cleaned the set. Total cost $225.00. The set performs like new. :grandpa9:

[Telstar]

"Total cost $225.00."
Now that my friend is what you call a real "bargain".

I'd go so far as to say it is "untypical" of what most technicians would charge for similar service around the country. $350 on up I'd say would be more the norm depending on what all they do and any extra services they might perform.

Curious..did the technician do much troubleshooting before determining to change out the caps? Or is the word finally getting to the ASC service repair technicians that it's not necessary to replace the entire DM Module when much of the time the problem is with those swollen Jamicon 1000uF 16V electrolytic capacitors?

Nicely done!

:cheers:

[ohheck]

Telstar,
According to my son, the technician told him that he had a pretty good idea what the problem was....the capacitors. He also told my son that other than the capacitors, the set was in great condition. The amazing thing was that the price included him removing the inside of the set (not just the DM module), transporting it to his shop, repairing and returning and reassembling the set. My son help him carry the innards of the set to and from his repair van. It took two days from start to finish. He also took an old 27" Sony analog set that quit powering up over a year ago and fixed it for a little over $100. That set is now in my 3 year old grandson's playroom where he can watch his favorite dvds. As said, my son is very pleased with this man's work.

[ray disanza]

Unbelievable, The internet Rocks and all you guys that had the will to go after the information to fix your own set thanks a million or should I say a thousand. Monday my wife informed me that our $4,000 65" tv no longer would turn on, yea you guessed it, the dreaded green blinking light of death. My heart sank and as I sighed, I just figured oh well there goes at least $500 I don't have to get this thing fixed. The next morning I started to call repair shops. One wanted $150 to just look at it and I had to truck it in . The other wanted $250 to look at it at my house but could not get there for three weeks. At this point I was quite depressed thinking this is going to be a job and a half just getting the behemoth to the shop nevermind the cost to fix. Talking to to my wife she suggested I call her dad a retired electrical engineer from GE. He said you know when components go on electrical items it is usually well known in the industry what components go bad and they talk about it. He suggested I search for discussion groups on the web and see if I come across the same situation. Well low and behold I found OMG I fixed My tv thread. Don you da man your detailed info led me to believe I had the same exact problem and could fix that baby myself no problem. By tuesday morning I had the dm board out and started to hunt for the 4 capacitors that were bad. Much to my surprise after going to 4 radio shacks and 3 electrical supply houses I could not find them. I finaly called my father inlaw and asked him If he could locate the 1000uf 16v capacitors were he lived. He had found 1 electronics shop that could order them at a cost of $15 a piece but they would take 10 days to get. At that point I was about to say ok but then my mind went back to the true marketplace, the internet. I now knew what I needed I just needed to find a place that had them and could get them to me fast. After a little digging my father in law found DIGI-KEY corporation . They had the exact capacitor I needed for the price of .35cents a piece. I could not believe it! they said they could priority ship them that day for an additional $5. I jumped up and down after I completed the order. The capacitors got here yesterday at 11:00 am I had already had the dm board out of the tv just wating for the new parts to arrive and by 1:00 we were watching saved episodes of john stewart on our big screen once again. Thanks again don for a very detailed account of the repair procedure and if anyone out there can't locate the capacitors go to www.digikey.com and for $8 you can be a tv star also. yea BABY!!!!!! :rockon:

[kslg]

I have a Mitu. WD-62725. This morning I turned it on, heard a fan spool up, then it shut off with a blinking red light (short-short-short-long). I also got an error code 37 (Engine (DMD or Lamp) Fan failure) Does anyone know if replacing the fans will do the trick? Or could it be something way over my head (like a board repair). Give me a screwdriver and a clue, and I can fix the space shuttle.... so, anyone have a clue for me?

[FrankD]

Well, I am depressed. My 65813 won't turn on. The green light just keeps blinking.

There seems like a lot of great info here. I just have to get myself calmed down enough so I can go through it.

Frank

[Telstar]

Hope you've calmed down by now Frank... :whistle:

At this stage we can only give you a few words of encouragement.

Read through the threads and you'll find lots of helpful tips and DIY info that might help you make the decision whether to do the work yourself or call in an ASC repair technician to troubleshoot and estimate the cost of repairs for you.

First, be sure to try:
A system reset using the recessed button on the front panel.
If that does not work, unplug the set and let it sit overnight.

If you still get the blinking light, who knows if it's those "puffy caps" (http://hdtvoice.com/voice/showpost.php?p=182585&postcount=17) on the DM module or not?
Perhaps a visual inspection will verify they could be the cause of your problem, although they don't always need to be swollen to still be the cause of your TV shutting down. If you get that far as to remove the DM and have the technical skills to rework a PCB, then you could go ahead and R/R those caps and maybe, just maybe you would have fixed it.

Good luck and let us know how it goes!

:)

[FrankD]

First I gotta say this thread is incredible. To even have a shot at fixing this on my own is amazing.

Ok here's where I'm at:

The TV is all apart in the basemess and the DM module is on my kitchen table. I'm not sure if the cap's are puffy or not. I do see a little bulge on the top of the cap's they are definitely not flat. It's seems very subtle to me so I'm not 100% sure but it seems possible the caps are the problem.

I used chrisandnat guide posted earlier in this thread to get the module out(http://chrisandnat.com/projects/blinkingtv/blink.htm). It was extremely helpfull. I deviated slightly from it(or I misread it). I did not remove the four lag bolts. I didn't have to in order to slide the main board out. I did have to disconnect three connectors and several wire ties and a metal strap that connected another "module" to the chassis. There were a lot of wires going in a lot of directions that I had to be careful not to stress. I hope I didn't do any damage in that regard. The other thing is I think it would have been easier to remove the DM module cover while the module was still connected to the main board. To do that remove the screws on the sides and the top of the cover. Then pull the cover off. Then remove the two screws holding the modules board to the main board and finally remove the DM board. It took me about an hour to remove the DM Module; I tried to work slowly and carefully. Again, I would have been clueless without chrisandnat's guide.

I ordered some 16v and some 25v caps and a desolder tool from mouser electronics (as suggested on the first post of this thread). I'm not sure I have the skill to replace the caps myself. I have done some soldering but never on anything requiring that much dexterity. I may look for some help in that regard.

I'm fairly anxious over the whole thing and am hoping for the best; we'll see. I'll keep you posted.

Frank

[Telstar]

"I do see a little bulge on the top of the cap's they are definitely not flat. It's seems very subtle to me so I'm not 100% sure but it seems possible the caps are the problem."
Typical GOOD caps (no bulge)...click here (http://www.fixya.com/Uploads/Images/362AB19.gif)
Typical PUFFY caps (bulge)...click here (http://www.fixya.com/Uploads/Images/483ECC9.gif)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
"I ordered some 16v and some 25v caps and a desolder tool from mouser electronics..."
NOTE: in most cases the original capacitors are 1000uF 16V 105C radial lead and measure 10mm in diameter and 16mm tall.
Icaillo (HDTVoicer and Mits/Sony dealer service manager) says:
"....I use 25V caps when I replace them."
------------------------------------------------------------------------
"I'm not sure I have the skill to replace the caps myself. I may look for some help in that regard."
If you're reticent about doing the work yourself...
Others have indicated they had contacted a local TV repair technician who removed and replaced the caps (you supply) for around $100 more or less depending on your negotiating skills or their standard shop fees...
they could also test the board to ensure good solder joints, no shorts, etc.

Sounds like you're on the right track Frank, here's hoping.

:)

[FrankD]

Yes, looking at the pictures, my caps seem to have the Jiffy Pop effect.

I may indeed be reticent. It's hard to say; that word isn't in my vocabulary. :)

I think I probably could do it myself but I'd rather pay a pro to do it. The risk/reward is just adding up that way for me. The bummer is it will take a little longer to have someone else do it and as sad as it is I'm lost with out my set. Without it I have to do things like watch Dancing with the Stars or read.

Guess what I was row 4 at game five, both parts!!!

[Telstar]

"Guess what I was row 4 at game five, both parts!!!"
Yea Phillies! :rockon:
I'm sure after waiting two days for the game to resume it was a relief to see Jenkins hit that double off the wall in right-center to start the Phillies 6th.
Just a great year for the Phillies, finally ending 25 years of frustration.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Just meant that if you're not sure you can do the rework, best to trust it to someone who does it for a profession and get it done right.

btw...typically the "puffy" caps are manufactured by Jamicon...
do you see their name on the (blue) caps?

Something like this...Jamicon Electrolytic Cap (http://www.audiokit.it/ITAENG/Condensatori/ExStock/Electrol/jam47.jpg)

Good luck!

:)

[FrankD]

That opening double was fantastic but it sucked when we gave that run right back in the next inning.

Yes, my caps are Jamicon just like the one pictured. I'm going to look into having someone swap em out for me. I should receive the new ones tomorrow, I had them shipped second day air.

The caps were so inexpensive I ordered both 16V and 25V:

Mini Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - 105 Degree 16volts 1000uF 10x16

Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - 105 Degree 1000uF 25V 105c 10x16 20% 5LS

I found the part number for the 16V in this thread and I used a filtered search feature on mouser's site to find the 25V. I'm not sure which I should install. I'd like to use the 25Vs but I don't know what those additional designations mean on the 25Vs. Maybe Icaillo will stop by and set me straight.

[FrankD]

Wooo Whoo!!! It worked!!!
What can I say that's awesome.

Thank you Telstar and everyone that contributed to this thread.

My Dad asked a friend of his to do the soldering for me and he did and expert job. He used the 25V caps. I was holding my breath when I turned it on for the first time after the fix hoping that green light would stop blinking and it did. It came right on after that.

I found all the information I needed in this thread as a matter of fact I found it all in the first post. But if anyone has any set (65813) specific questions don't hesitate to ask by post or email. I'll do my best to help.

Another happy ending.

Frank

[Telstar]

"Wooo Whoo!!! It worked!!!"
lol...why am I NOT surprised Frank? :whistle:

You looked for a solution to your dilemma, you went on a mission to find that solution, you read the information available and you put it to good use.

Congrats! You did good. :rockon:

Those darn Jamicon's have been the source of so many headaches, resulting in owners spending thousands and thousands of dollars to replace and/or rework those DM modules when, in most cases, it was simply replacing those caps that was the remedy...it's a sad state of affairs.

Fortunately, like yours, there are many happy endings for those willing to take a risk by doing the work themselves...such is the world of the DIYer.

Thanks for letting us know how it turned out Frank, that's what this site is all about...
finding answers and solutions to situations like the one you confronted...
you accepted the challenge, and won.

Nicely done!

:wave:

[shin234]

Hi i just did the cap replacement and still get a fast blinking green light i am going to leave it unplugged overnight to reset it and try again in the morning but what else could it be? i am good with soldering i can do most anything.

[shin234]

well i waited all night plugged it in and still have the green blinking light. any clues?? maybe a fuse or some connections to check?

[FrankD]

The only idea I have:

Make sure the card is seated properly. You can install the card without the cover. Just make sure you use a piece of cardboard or something to keep those copper grounding springs insulated from the card itself.

Did the caps you replaced look shot?

[shin234]

they were defiently shot. i re soldiered the caps in place adjusted the angles a little and left the case off and made sure i applied more pressure reseating it and then plugged it back in and waited 5 mins and then viola about 3 mins it it stopped blinking and i have a picture :) thanks

[shin234]

Could this be a CAP problem??
Pic (http://s481.photobucket.com/albums/rr174/shin2344/?action=view&current=photo.jpg)

[ctomac]

I have a Mits WS-65869 with the green blinking light problem. It went bad after the power was temporarily shut off for line work; when it came back on, the TV wasn't working and the green light was blinking. I have tried the reset, leaving it uplugged for 24 hours, etc. - still doesn't work.

I have read the excellent instructions, have removed the DM Power board, and plan to replace the 7 capacitors. However, none of the capacitors has a bulge on the top at all; they all look and feel totally flat.

Could the capacitors still be the problem even though they are not swollen? Is there any way to check them?

[lcaillo]

They may still be the problem, but no way to tell unless you pull them and have a good tester. Better to just change them and see. I have had two of these recently that the caps did not fix the problem. Also, make sure that you don't have a corroded front panel switch locking up the data bus. That can cause some strange behavior on these sets, though I have not seen it cause boot failure.

[judegibby]

I have a Mitsubishi WD-52527 that the lights are flashing. I was told today that the DM assembly needs to be replaced at a high cost. I would like to just replace the caps that are bad but can not find out which ones to replace. And if they should be replaced with a different valued cap. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

thnaks for any help in advance.

[Telstar]

1) "...can not find out which ones (caps) to replace..."
2) "...should be replaced with a different valued cap..."
I believe you'll find answers to those questions at Post #128 (http://www.hdtvoice.com/voice/showpost.php?p=200847&postcount=128) of this thread but also I'd suggest reading through this entire thread as well as others in this Forum for answers to those questions and others you might also have.

However, continue to post if there's anything more you need to know.

:)

[daryl@detel.com]

I have a WD-52725 with the green light of death. Does anyone have instructions on replacing the caps for this set? Or can tell me where I should start? Should I purchase a service book?

[daryl@detel.com]

Have you gotten any help with your WD-52725?

[judegibby]

I believe you'll find answers to those questions at Post #128 (http://www.hdtvoice.com/voice/showpost.php?p=200847&postcount=128) of this thread but also I'd suggest reading through this entire thread as well as others in this Forum for answers to those questions and others you might also have.

However, continue to post if there's anything more you need to know.

:)


I removed the DM4 board and examined it. None of the capacitors look to be puffy at all. But after turning the board over, I can tell that they were replaced before. This is very upsetting since I bought this tv 3 years ago and never had it serviced. There are a total of 12 capacitors that appear they had been replaced before. Should I replace all 12 again? They are as follows:

C117,C112 -- 330uF 10V
C9G17, C9G18, C9G37, C9G38, C9G57, C9G58 -- 680uF 10V
C9G04, C9G24, C9G44 -- 680uF 25V
C7E01 -- 1000uF 6.3v

Thanks for all the help.

[Telstar]

"...Should I replace all 12 again?"
I believe the logical answer at this point is...yes...
go ahead and replace all the caps you feel are questionable.

Reason being, if you only replace a portion of them, and not all of them, and...the board still doesn't work...you'll be wondering if the fault lies in the caps you left alone.
If the board works then, your effort is justified and was worth it.

As Icaillo has pointed out numerous times in this forum (e.g. (http://hdtvoice.com/voice/showpost.php?p=182585&postcount=17)), the caps don't have to be puffy to be bad, that is only a sure indicator that they've gone bad.
"I have tested some that were swollen and some that were not. The ones that were not and had not failed still had very high DA (dielectric absorbtion), indicating there may be a problem with the electrolyte or the dielectric itself."
Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

:)

[FrankD]

they were defiently shot. i re soldiered the caps in place adjusted the angles a little and left the case off and made sure i applied more pressure reseating it and then plugged it back in and waited 5 mins and then viola about 3 mins it it stopped blinking and i have a picture :) thanks


That's very good news. It feels great doesn't it. (Sorry about the slow response)

[judegibby]

I believe the logical answer at this point is...yes...
go ahead and replace all the caps you feel are questionable.

Reason being, if you only replace a portion of them, and not all of them, and...the board still doesn't work...you'll be wondering if the fault lies in the caps you left alone.
If the board works then, your effort is justified and was worth it.

As Icaillo has pointed out numerous times in this forum (e.g. (http://hdtvoice.com/voice/showpost.php?p=182585&postcount=17)), the caps don't have to be puffy to be bad, that is only a sure indicator that they've gone bad.

Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

:)


Well I replaced all 12 caps, reassembled the unit and still have the same problem. Any thoughts????

[Telstar]

"...12 capacitors that appear they had been replaced before."
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
"Well I replaced all 12 caps, reassembled the unit and still have the same problem.
Any thoughts????"
Darn, sorry to hear that... :sobbing:
since most solutions achieved in this thread are the result of replacing bad Jamicon caps and upon doing that your situation has not been resolved and, without knowing exactly the cause of your unit's failure to perform, it would probably require expert intervention to troubleshoot the set and get to the root cause...or, worst case condition that has already been suggested, replace the entire DM.

Just recheck and ensure solderability of the work you performed and that you've tried the reset button on front. With that done and unless and until someone has a better suggestion, might be best to call in that ASC technician to take it from here especially since you've indicated prior work had been performed on the board before you took it over which indicates previous attempts to fix an apparently historical problematic unit.

We'd sure like to know ultimately if and when it happens, specifically what fixed your set.

:)

[rvz]

Hi all - I have a Mits WD-62525 and all of a sudeen last week the screen started to flicker when I first turn it on. Just in a week it looks like it's getting worse, I thought that it was mainly flickering on lower 1/3 of the screen at first but now it seems like the entire screen flickers but still, the lower 1/3 is worse.

Let me describe the flicker...the screen jumps, or scrambles, for an instant and is at its worst when it first turns on. It goes away entirely after about 10-20 minutes, as if an IC or component begins to work properly as it heats up.

I don't know what the tempco of an electrolytic cap is so I couldn't say if it's a cap problem. But I do know that some IC's, as they begin to fail, sometimes work better as they heat up because the Vt of the transistors is lower at high temps.

I don't have a problem replacing components but I could certainly use your help in figuring out which board to start on and if you think it's a cap problem or IC problem.

Thanks for your help in advance!

[shin234]

Could this be a CAP problem??
Pic (http://s481.photobucket.com/albums/rr174/shin2344/?action=view&current=photo.jpg)
Anyone have any help for me??

[kayaknutt]

Hi, Hope I got this right, I looked at what I think are the sticky threads.

My WD-52327 AT EXACTLY 2 yrs, orange lamp & text saying lamp needing replacmet or servicing soon. So I did the internet search on bulbs, Bought an Osram replacment bulb, got a deal on E-bay, also cleaned the filter ata the same time. Now exactly 1 yr to the day, The set played all day, shuts off, no picture or sound, blinking red light, unplugged it overnight, fired right up, ran a couple of hours, did it again, unplugge it, fired up & ran fine for 2 plus weeks. I downloaded the service manual, I am not sure if I have a 33 or a 44 code. Light blinks 3 time and on the 4th pauses. And the pause is what screws me up. So I Find the sticky just under the code's ,from what I see I am stuck on #1 that suspects a bad lamp......... Is this common for a bulb to go out in a year? I'd hate to pay a tech big bucks to tell me the bulb is bad. :headb: so I just am looking for help with the code interpertation? Any suggestions on the direction I should go?

[nuc_cmd]

tv worked fine until i turned it off then it would not come back on. its out of warranty and all the repair guys i call say all they can do is replace the dm board. i need help, anybody have this problem?

[TimRiley]

:thankyou3

I just finished replacing the capacitors on my Mitsubishi CS-27201 and it worked spectacularly.

The blinking green timer/power LED symptoms, diagnosis, and capacitor sizes were the same on my Mitsubishi CS-27201.

The most difficult part was soldering itty bitty dots, because the circuit board has some connections that are really too close for comfort. As a very infrequent user of a solder iron I was a little scared that I would put a big glob of solder and short circuit something. If one has a steady hand and is careful not to use too much, you can put a small drop on the lead wire and progressively coax only as much of the droplet down the wire as will be necessary to make a good connection.

The other complication is that the capacitors that I bought were not clearly marked with a positive and negative end. I asked the guy who sold them to me and he said the lead on the side of the stripe was the negative terminal. I looked closely, but it is not clearly marked at all.

Another reason to do the work yourself. I was going to get an electronics repair guy to do the component soldering work, but my TV repair guy shrugged me off saying that he couldn't work on components due to liability issues. It did not sound plausible because, when he offered the excuse, he made it sound like he would be happy to charge me for a house call to pull the board out of my TV directly and charge me $500 to "guarantee his work". Whatever. I am glad he was my work was not good enough for him, because now that I have done the work myself, he can go fly a kite and I can feel like a smart, utilitarian, renaissance man for having the focus to diagnose and pursue solutions to my own problems.

Sincere thanks to all the great discussion notes here on this website. You have empowered people to DIY.

[darco]

Hey guys,,,green light of death here after a power outage. I read the forum and thought this was over my head. I called out a tech, who quoted me approx $450 to replace the DM w/a refurbished one.
The tv is approx 6 years old so I told him I would think about it. I was really hoping for alot lower estimate.
Anyways, I removed the DM which wasnt hard. Had to remove the wire assemblies from the mainboard since I wasnt going to attempt to solder it myself.
I purchased the capacitors for a local Electronic shop. I did notice later on the receipt that the caps show 1000mf instead of uf. I called him back and he consulted with another employee and said there is no difference, Can anyone confirm this?
NTEVHT1000mf 25v 105c

Also I didnt noticed that they had to be a certain size (16mm?), I just bought whatever they handed me.
I did take the unit and the parts to a local TV Tech and he didnt say anything about the size and I didnt think to match the sizes when I was there.
I will get back to tell you how it went...
thxs for this great site!

darco

I

[Ratman]

mF or uF should be the same. (micro farad)

[FrankD]

darco,
Size wise as long as they fit on the board and in the steel box you should be OK.

Do the caps on the board look "puffy" especially on top?

Good luck to you,
Frank

[darco]

darco,
Size wise as long as they fit on the board and in the steel box you should be OK.

Do the caps on the board look "puffy" especially on top?

Good luck to you,
Frank

WOOT :rockon:

Just installed the DM and I am a ROCKING! ..ya the cap size was fine and no, none of the caps looked puffy at all. Caps were black made by Nichicon.
The Tech charged me $25 to solder. The Caps were $18 and the in house estimate was $45...add some drive time,.... great bargain :D
Thanks and good luck to all who run into this problem.

darco

[jwiltshire]

I have the WS 55613. The compassators were replaced last year, and worked fine. We moved the TV and since then I've had it in lower power mode. The TV would take anywhere from 5 mins to an hour to fire up from that point ( with a blinking green light before it would turn on). The other day, however, it was blinking green for 8 hrs and didnt come on. I opened it up and replaced the compassators again and closed it up, and I'm still getting the green flashing light. Now, when I hit the reset button, I'm hearing a constant c******* ( the same click it makes when it resets). UGH! I've done this before (replacing the compassators) and it worked fine. Now, I can't get rid of the blinking green light of death.

Anyone else having this problem???

[Ratman]

Capacitor ;)

Maybe it's a different problem.

[jwiltshire]

Capacitor ;)

Maybe it's a different problem.

Thanks. I was hoping someone was having a similar problem because now, I am at a total loss.

[jwiltshire]

I have now, replaced the capacitors and re-soddered them, hoping the flashing green light would stop, and it hasn't. I plug the TV back in and still get the GLOD. I let it sit for a few mins and even reset it, but still flashing. Anyone got any ideas on what else the problem could be? I was under the impression that flashing green light = bad capacitors.

[lcaillo]

The flashing green LED that never stops indicates that the main micro never got communication from the DM micro that it booted up. The reason is often that the caps in the DM supply or elsewhere are bad, but there could be dozens of other reasons why this can happen. At this point you would need to do some detailed troubleshooting, replace boards, or have the chassis rebuilt, depending on the set.

[jwiltshire]

thanks for the response Icaillo.

When I reset the TV, I now here a constant cl icking....the same cl icking you hear once when reseting the TV, except now it doesn't stop once the reset button is hit. Kindof like the TV is trying get info from the DM board and is not. the capacitors look fine now, and ( i think ) i have everything installed correctly. ugh. as i feared, this sounds much worse than replacing the 4 capacitors.

[Telstar]

"The reason is often that the caps in the DM supply or elsewhere are bad,
but there could be dozens of other reasons why this can happen."
Thanks to Icaillo for making the point that not ALL problems relating to the Blinking Status Lights are directly related to bad capacitors, as this thread addresses. Within the intricacies of electronic circuits/boards (DM supply for example) there are many reasons for poor performance, only one...that being bad/puffy caps, does this thread highlight.

As Icaillo states, when the problem is not resolved by replacing the caps:
"...you would need to do some detailed troubleshooting..."
(in order to get to the root cause of the problem).

:)

[davedolli]

I replaced the caps on my 65513, with RS, 1000uf 35 volt caps, and had no luck getting the board seated properly. I was at wits end, until I read about just leaving the metal case off, which I did. It worked perfect, I used a piece of plastic to insulate the board from the grounding leads that touch the metal case. It fired right up, and everyone thinks the picture is even better, if that's possible.
Thanks again, Dave

[techco]

I really want to thank you all for the insight on fixing my WL-82913. I had the Flashing green light that would not reset after a power failure, saw the posts decided to try the wonderful step by step directions. Changed the Caps, and my TV is working again!! I have a friend with the same model that had the same issue, that took mitsu 6 months and 3 k to fix (turns out it was the same issue).
I never got a single return emaill or call from Mitsu, when trying to get a DM board, and the repair manual, and I am sad to say that after 3 mits, big screens purchases, and the lack of customer service, this one wil probably be my last
Thanks again!

[Telstar]

"Changed the Caps, and my TV is working again!!"
It's always gratifying to hear positive feedback about successful ventures into the wonderful world of the Do-It-Yourselfer such as yours. The many incidents recorded throughout this and other threads of similar accomplishments is a testament on how shared knowledge benefits those willing to take that extra step of taking on a task easily ignored simply for the lack of the direction which many have found within these forums. While not always the remedy for the BLOD, changing those pesky caps seems to be the resolution for a goodly number of Mits owners facing similar dilemmas and we appreciate everyone's participation, either as teacher or student and are always happy to hear feedback regarding successful outcomes to those undertakings.
So, with that being said, may I wish everyone a very....

:Party6: "Happy New Year" :Party6:

.

[wjja47]

I finally got my TV to work but changing the capacitors and thermal sensor didn't do the trick. I figured out the whole problem after reading a Mitsubishi tech manual.

The Problem:
Mits DLP TV has two microprocessors, PC and DM, that communicate with each other. Normally when the TV powers up the DM processor is waiting for a request from the PC processor and communication is established. After a power surge, the boards may lose communication with each other. Each processor sends out a request and waits for a response from the other processor, bad idea. The problem is each board is waiting for a response at the same time. Microprocessors can’t receive a request when it sending a request. So either processor get the request cause they both sending out a request at the same time then listen at the same time. If the processors don’t get a response, they reset each other, even worse idea. The reset put the processors right back where they started. This is why the front reset button does not work. THE MICROPROCESSORS HAVE A TIMING CYCLE PROBLEM WHICH IS COMMON IN DIGITAL CIRCUITS AFTER A POWER SURGE OR BAD SHUTDOWN, WHICH IS WHY THIS AFFECTS SO MANY DIFFERENT MODELS. Mitsubishi should of never allowed both microprocessors the ability to reset the other. Only one processor should be able to reset the other and the other processor should always be waiting for a request after communication loss.

The Solution:
1. Power the TV on and wait for the blinking green light to stop.
2. Press input and menu at the same time and make sure you have error code 12
If you don’t get this error code you have a different problem.
3. Press all the front panel buttons on the TV one at a time, except the reset button and power button.
This sends a system command to one of the processors and interrupts the processors from waiting for a response. After the processor is done with the system command request, it sends a request to the other processor that is waiting.
4. Hit the power button on the TV and it should fire up.
If it doesn’t work repeat step 3 and 4 several times. When the processor was done with the system command request, it sent a request to the other processor but the other processor was sending a request too. The trick is to get the processors off the same timing pattern. If after several times it didn’t work you probably need to replace the caps since the power surge burned them out.

Misc:
Some people change their caps and get the TV to work and some don’t. The microprocessors continue to be hung up after you unplug the TV because the caps act as batteries. The microprocessors still have a timing problem because the processors never stop working. These microprocessors are low power which means these caps can keep them powered up for days. This is why some people get their TV to work after days of sitting in the corner, unplugged. If you remove good caps from the DM board, the TV might fire up because you removed the processors power supply on the DM board and they are on the correct timing cycle after you changed them.
If you have a power surge and it burns out your caps you get the blinking green light of death. If it didn’t burn them out, then you get a timing problem and you get the same blinking green light of death. Therefore, the blinking green light of death can be cause by a timing problem or bad caps or both.

FYI:
Put the TV in low energy mode. This allows the DM processor to shut off when the TV is off. During power up, the DM processor has to wait for a signal from the PC processor. After a power surge, the processors won’t care if they lost communication cause the DM processor has to power up from scratch and wait for the PC processor. This should fix any future blinking green light of death.

Good Luck,
Will
Mizzou Engineering Graduate

[SuperJoker]

Ok I just recently had a problem with My WD-57731 HD TV(Week 25: Year 2006), I could not use either remote(TV or Dish Network) as I had before I took a nap, The only controls that worked were on the front of the TV, I tried resetting the TV, That didn't do anything, I called a TV Place to get some Help, They sent a Tech out for a $75 trip charge, In the mean time the set acted a little weird It actually raised the volume and lowered It by Itself, I told the TV Techs what was going on and they did a Hard Reset which didn't last more than an hour as It was as if the Tech hadn't come, I did a hard reset on My own as they'd done(Hey I watched) and the TV remotes started to work again and I was told that It could be fixed by replacing the processor or the processor and a capacitor fix for $350 after 30 days It would be $425 of course, I've owned the Set since early November 2006 and I have only had to replace the Lamps and do some dusting, I bought the TV on ebay and as soon as Mits found out that I had bought the TV on ebay they voided any warranty I had as they'd said there was only one online place authorized and none on ebay were and at the time there was only one authorized Mits Dealer and they would not come out here unless I had bought the TV from them, Needless to say in 2 years they have competition or their no longer authorized by Mits.

So far the TV is still working, a few days before the remote problem happened I had to replace the lamp as the TV would have sound and then turn itself off, But No picture, about 20 minutes later I had replaced the old lamp with the new one that I had bought on ebay(My 3rd lamp in two Years) and the TV was working just fine then on the 30th the remotes stopped working as I had already described earlier.

[lcaillo]

The WD-73733 is not one of the sets that has capacitor problems. Your description is unclear, likely why no one responded. If you want help, I suggest you give all of the details, like why you ordered a lamp and what symptoms and LED indications you have. A 1-2 code indicates no error, and "the button thing" is not in my vocabulary.

[Wildrat]

http://www.hdtvoice.com/voice/showthread.php?p=209255#post209255
:zblowup: :zblowup:

[install112]

Just replace the four caps, but had no luck. At my wits in, anybody have any suggestions to what to do next.

[PerfectTV]

Anybody in South Florida interested in repairing there Mitsubishi DLP can contact me. It is the V26 chassis with the blinking green light. Models such as wd-52525, wd-52725, wd-52825, wd-62525, wd-62725, wd-62825.... Replacing the swollen caps on thse sets generally will not cure the problem. We rebuild the entire chassis guaranteed. pm me or email at b1zzyv1et@bellsouth.net

thanks
Scott
Factory Mitsubishi Servicer

[heathkennedy]

I too now have this plague, however, the green light flashes rapidly 11 times, pauses for a half second and makes a faint noise out of the tv speakers, and repeats. Every other half second pause also emits a c******* sound from the power supply board. I replaced 4 caps on the DM, 4 on the FMT, and one on the power supply board. All other caps look good, but I guess doesn't necessarily mean they are. Anybody else go through this or have any suggestions? Thanks!

[lcaillo]

Anybody in South Florida interested in repairing there Mitsubishi DLP can contact me. It is the V26 chassis with the blinking green light. Models such as wd-52525, wd-52725, wd-52825, wd-62525, wd-62725, wd-62825.... Replacing the swollen caps on thse sets generally will not cure the problem. We rebuild the entire chassis guaranteed. pm me or email at b1zzyv1et@bellsouth.net

thanks
Scott
Factory Mitsubishi Servicer

What does your "rebuild" include, what is the cost, what is the guarantee, and how does your work compare to sending the chassis to Mitsubishi for a rebuild?

[MitsWS65411]

My Mitsubishi WS-65411 projection TV has done the following things:

1) It would not turn off with the remote or on the front panel buttons. After I unplugged it for nine hours and replugged TV seemed to work normally for a couple of days.
2) After a night of TV watching that was normal and turning off the TV at bedtime, the next morning the TV would not turn on by either the remote or the front panel.
3) Tried unplugging and replugging again which did not work. When I replugged the TV the green light on the front would illuminate for a couple of seconds and then the illumination stopped.
4) Punched the A/V reset on the front panel which successfully allowed me to turn the TV on.
5) Now when the TV is playing the TV video will flash intermittently and the volume will change either up or down. It does not do this immediately but it does after a period of time. Neither the remote nor the front panel volume controls are being used when the volume changes. It will either go all the way to highest volume setting or all the way to the lowest volume setting. It seems to get worse the longer the TV is on.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks

[Ratman]

Did you read/try these suggestions for remote/FP buttons?
http://www.hdtvoice.com/voice/showthread.php?t=32177

[sdeleon101]

Hey Guys,

I tried re-palcing the four caps but I still get the blinking lights. One thing though is that my lamp blew out and I replaced the lamp only orginally in the beginning. Once I turned on the set I got the blinking lights. Any ideas before I send the set out and spend some money. I see the tread above about the chips re-starting each other but because the set does not turn on I would just have to leave the set unplugged for a while. Any suggestions would be helpful.

Thanks,

Steve

[joeventura]

Ok here is what I have been through

I have a Mits WD-62725

Had the GLOD on and off for a few months, finally just like everyone else, the system reset no longer brought it back to life.

Had 4 nice puffy Caps on the Power Supply board which I replaced.

Now when I plug in the unit the blinking green light goes off like it should, I power it up, the DLP lamp lights, stays lit for about 20 seconds and then the system shuts down,

Diagnostic code is 34 Lamp Abnormality

Lamp lights so I assume its good. What else would it be?

[Mannon]

Hello. I just purchased a ws55613 for 100$ lol. I figured it would be worth a shot at fixing. Had the blinking light problem. Replaced the four caps on the dm even though they appeared to be good and also it looked like they had been replaced before. But with the 16v again instead of the 25v or 35v. Anywho, this fix didn't work for me. So what the set does is... plug it into the wall, the green light blinks for about 60 seconds then it stops, light goes out. Power button wont turn it on, holding the device and menu buttons won't give me any codes. Reset button works but it does the same thing all over again. So what I can gather is that the dm is booting up, but thats it??? I have a decent digital DMM and analog simpson and am capable of doing some things. So, does anyone have any help for me on this one or is it time to call in the pros?? Thank you in advance.

Mannon

Oh, btw, my 40" mitsi lcd set will blink for about 60 seconds when first pluged into the wall, then it stops. And that tv works fine so I guess the use similar systems.

[Mannon]

Okay, I did some more poking around. But before I get started I need a Tv lingo class, all the acronym's. I'm gonna assume pcb is printed circuit board. The pcb that has all the inputs has a big crack in it. I removed that board comepletely and set it aside, the tv now comes on.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b222/mtjones1523/tvworks.jpg

That is the picture that is first displayed, then I can press menu and snoop around in there. Haven't tried hooking anything up to it yet. I have a question though. When the set is turned off, is it normal to have a slow blinking light? For now I'm gonna put the inputboard back in and see if any of them work or if anything changes, like getting the fast blinking light again.

[Hogan2159]

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to move the blue vertical convergence on a WS-65511? I can align the red vertical and red horizontal. And I can align the blue horizontal ... but not the blue vertical.

I have replaced the convergence IC (STK-393-110) ... twice. Both times it was a Sanyo part. And I've replaced the 7 capacitors on the DM Power board.

Any ideas what to check next?

-- Hogan (pmr2159@aol.com)

[lastthrill]

Okay, I did some more poking around. But before I get started I need a Tv lingo class, all the acronym's. I'm gonna assume pcb is printed circuit board. The pcb that has all the inputs has a big crack in it. I removed that board comepletely and set it aside, the tv now comes on.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b222/mtjones1523/tvworks.jpg

That is the picture that is first displayed, then I can press menu and snoop around in there. Haven't tried hooking anything up to it yet. I have a question though. When the set is turned off, is it normal to have a slow blinking light? For now I'm gonna put the inputboard back in and see if any of them work or if anything changes, like getting the fast blinking light again.


The slow blinking light means that the timer is engaged. You can find the options for it in TV Menu - Time - Timer.

Sorry I can't help you with anything else because I am currently having my own troubles with a ws55813

[Hogan2159]

lastthrill,

Have you tried checking the pico fuses and replacing the convergence IC?

-- Hogan

[lastthrill]

lastthrill,

Have you tried checking the pico fuses and replacing the convergence IC?

-- Hogan

Hogan,

Would you mind going into abit more detail... I am an amateur with TVs but skilled with electronics and a solder. Mind explaining where I can find the convergence IC and pico fuses? Thanks!

[Hogan2159]

Lastthrill,

The convergence IC is located on a the back of a heat sink (a large, vertical, metal object with fins) on the Power board (center board). The pico fuses are small, green fuses that look like capacitors. They are also on the Power board.

But before we get into replacing those, have you tried adjusting the convergence using your remote? On the Advanced Convergence screen, can you move the red both horizontally and vertically? Can you move the blue both horizontally and vertically?

-Hogan

[lastthrill]

I have adjusted the convergence in the service menu and I am able to adjust them with no problem. It does not make the picture come through any clearer. I would liketo take a look at the pico fuses as well as the convergence IC.

I also have a 3pin surface mount 9V regulator on order that I am going to replace when it gets here.

[Hogan2159]

Well, I was able to answer my own question from February 22 above.

I found two bad resistors (R8C21 and R8C22) on the convergence circuit. I replaced them and can now align the blue vertical. Beautiful picture.

With that final tweek, I can now claim to be one of the many who have successfully repaired their own Mitsubishi thanks, in part, to this forum.

If I can help someone else, let me know.

-- Hogan
pmr2159@aol.com

[bozagain]

Hi,
Mitsubishi WS-55711

My brother's Mitsubishi went out with a recent power shortage. All he's getting now is a blinking green light. :mecry: I guess the consensus here is to have someone locally take a look at it. It could be the caps on the DV like everyone's problem. Parts needed for this sound like they are dirt cheap, it's the labor part that has us worried. Are there honest TV repair guys that won't take advantage and charge an arm and a face? :wave: Thanks! (From the "O.C")


Mitsubishi WS-55711 (Widescreen 55 inch) Diamond Series Integrated Rear Projection HDTV

Technology: Projection

Projection Display Technology: CRT

Display Format 1080i

Image Aspect Ratio 16:9

Image Contrast Ratio 50:1

Horizontal Resolution 1200 lines

Progressive Scan Progressive scanning (line doubling)

Widescreen Modes: Zoom, Expand, Normal, Stretch, Conventional 4:3

Viewing Angle 110 degrees

Pixel Pitch 0.52 mm

[PerfectTV]

What does your "rebuild" include, what is the cost, what is the guarantee, and how does your work compare to sending the chassis to Mitsubishi for a rebuild?

Sorry for the late response as we dont check the forums much. We charge between $400-$500 depending on your location and setup. 90 day warranty (only on the chassis). We rebuild the power supply, fmt, dm, and terminal boards. Its alot of work and must be done right. 1-2 day turnaround time. We have the chassis in stock so same day service is available. We just keep your core. Sending a chassis to Mitsu takes 4-8weeks. We take 1 one day. We have been rebuilding them for over a year now, and no problems yet.

Scott

[Totheroo]

Hi everybody! :wave:

I too have the "blinking light of death" on my WS-55909. I had done this repair once before when I first acquired the TV, it worked wonderfully! :D

That is until one of our Florida thunderstorms rolled through a few days ago.

I attempted the repair a second/third/fourth/etc. time, but it has been unsuccessful. This particular DM power supply requires the 7 16v 1000mf capacitors.

The DM power supply board might be faulty, but I am unable to test it in any way shape or form. I cannot find a replacement/substitute part either.

Something I noticed the first time I did the repair was a tiny green LED on one of the boards below the power supply board. I swear I recall that LED blinking or remaining steady before, but now I can't see it, either because it's off/broken or I'm making this up completely. It makes me wonder if something else is wrong.

So, on to business...

(1) Does anyone know where can I get a replacement, refurbished, rebuilt ASSY-DM-POWER SUPPLY board. Part #: 935C986001? Any Guesstimate on price?

(2) Is the DM portion of the TV set bypassable in any way shape or form? I really only use this TV as a glorified monitor (i do not use the TUNERS/AUDIO portions of the TV), so if I can cut this portion of the hardware out somehow, I'll do that.

Thanks for your help folks, looking forward to a response! :thankyou3

[Ezekiel]

Hello everyone,

I have a WD-y65 that will on show picture, only hear sound for 60 seconds then it shuts off. the error code flashes 6 times.

I looked at everything, no puffy caps or loose cables. Color wheel spins, ballast makes its start up noises, and i see the flashes from it. I can also see the light engine fan spin up. But like i said it shuts it self down after 60 Seconds with no error or red light. And the lamp was replaced twice, last time was 3 months ago.

Anyone know what the 6 green flashes mean?

Thanks in Advance!

[kgrif73781]

I just used the step by step instructions posted by chrisandnat on this site and successfully fixed my Mitsubishi 65613 rear projection t.v. The only thing I can add is that you may want to take digital pictures of the wires that you have unplug before your slide out the shelve unit. They will come in handy when you have to put it back together. Also please be sure when you are putting the DM board back after replacing the capacitors, to make sure you properly align the board into the slot on the black plactic track that is located at the rear inside of the box. the track is fastened to the tv base so be careful when sliding the box back down on to it as it must be property seated for all 4 connectors to attach. I didn't do this the first time and had to open the back of the box again to figure that out! Also I didn't want to do the soldering so I took the DM board to a tv repair shop and had them do it. I still saved a bundle. I had called around and had been quoted $1200 to fix the tv as was told it was a bad DM board and had to be replaced. Good thing they were wrong. Thanks to all especially chrisandnat!

[mnoorbakhsh]

I own a mits ws-65313 which I bought from best buy five years ago. The picture blinks sometimes mostly in the afternoon. Also, I can't turn the TV on using the remote when this happens. any suggestions what and how I can fix this issue? Thanks in advance for your response.

Mason

[57U]

The remote issue could be a stuck relay, or a stuck button (on the TV). See the following things to check:

http://www.hdtvoice.com/voice/showthread.php?t=15263 Item 21

[exojam]

I wanted to join this forum to say thank you to the contributors’ of this thread.

I have a Mits WS-65813 that started the steady blinking green link this weekend. After looking in the service manual and finding nothing it was on to Google. From there I was led here to this great thread outlining the issue and possible causes.

After reading about the caps I kept looking for a entry that had the part number for them. After being pretty silly for awhile I found them right on the first page (duh).

Ordered up the caps and placed them in the board during lunch. Put the board in and still had the steady lights. After that I had to get back into work so I looked at again after getting off. Because of the “feel” of these connectors, I just did not feel like all were set in correctly. I removed the DM board from the cage and placed it back in by itself (putting cardboard between the board and the ground pieces), this time with a more confident feeling all were set in correctly. Added power and no more light. TV is up and running.

So, thank you to all who put this great thread together and saved me some green.

James

[gmb92]

I just wanted to post my flook repair of the green blinking timer light problem.

I have had a WD-62525 for over 3 years. The other day we moved it about 3 feet (gently), and that night we got the "Blinking Green Light Of Death!"
Yes it was the timer light and it wouldn't stop blinking. I started doing research on these forums, and came across a error code test function. It said to hold down Device and Menu for 5 seconds to get an error code. I tried this with no success, but it gave me the idea to try other key combos. I then held in Menu and Enter for 5-10 seconds (on the front panel), and the blinking light went out. (If it doesn't work, try other key combos) I was then able to power up the TV. :D It has functioned properly every time since (so far). This may be a random flook, but I figured it is worth trying. Please let me know if anyone has success with this. I figured it was worth spreading the word to try it.

Good luck to you all and Happy Holidays.

[skyboss911]

My WD52527 green led blinking. No picture. No sound. I have the chassis and the boards removed. I hear a lot of talk about the Jamico caps that go bad...I can only see one that is a Jamico, but I see several other caps, some quite large on the power board and the DM board. Is it my understanding to go ahead and replace all the caps on the DM board? Should I also change out the caps on the power board? I might add that none look bad, but I know that doesn't mean much. I have the service manual, but it doesn't help much. I might add that originally the set was fine until it was unplugged by accident, then the blinking started. I also got it to come on twice in the last year by just fingering the reset button a few times, but eventually it stopped completely. Any help would be great.
:)

[hsdseth]

I have a Mitsubishi WS-55511 and I had the same issue, Blinking Green Light of Death. It was working a week ago unplugged it to make room for the new TV and it struck.

I was planning on selling it at a garage sale but when I plugged it in for someone who wanted to buy it I found the problem. Nothing I did, unplug and wait, or hit the reset button seemed to do the trick. With the help of Google I found this awesome website and your detailed post! Like you I had not soldered a circuit board before so your description and pictures helped, thanks!

$13.00 one variable temp solder iron (Circuit Specialists - Mesa, AZ)
$.99 one desolder braid (Circuit Specialists - Mesa, AZ)
$1.90 one solder tube (Circuit Specialists - Mesa, AZ)
$6.65 seven 1000uF 16v 105c radial capacitors (Capital Electronics - Phoenix, AZ)
$24.32 with Tax
+ an hour of drive time.

Finding someone that carried (locally) the correct capacitors was a little difficult. Circuit Specialists & Radio Shack carried 1000uF 25v 85c capacitors. But I was worried about the heat so I wanted the higher temp versions that were originally installed (105c). I paid more for the capacitors than if I had I bought them online but I also didn't have to wait a couple of days for them to ship or pay shipping.. Worth the extra $0.74 each to pick them up to me.

Thanks so much for your detailed work!

[intrepid]

You can also find that manual at https://www.manualuniverse.com

[panerainy]

i have a ws 65611. it is flashing a 2-2-2-2-2-2-2-2-2-2 code. I noticed on a previous post another model had this code and it was a convergence ic issue. Is it the same for my model? what is the cost for repair? Can anybody recommend a good repairman around Southern Cali area? I am not tech savvy so DIY is out of the question for me.
. Thanks!

[JakeStraw]

Hi everyone. I have a Mitsu 55813 HDTV. I live in No VA, the recent blizzard included several power surges that (I think) fried my TV and brought on the 'green light of death'. I was going to the repairman (guy I used before and trusted) but like I always do, googled "flashing green light" to get an idea of what the problem might be before he walked in the door. After reading the posts, and the unbelievable guidance & instructions that many of you have created and posted for our benefit, I bought the capacitors, made the fix, and am overjoyed to report that I'm back in business: TV works great.
My input:
1. I'm fairly handy and a shade-tree 'fix it' guy ... mostly bolt-on, bolt-off ... not a 'take it apart to the core'. But, I'm no Tesla either. If you can walk and chew gum, GET THE RIGHT TOOLS, and TAKE YOUR TIME, you can do this.
2. Every TV set is a little different. The components of my 55813 were placed as per the photo guides posted in this blog, but there are a few anomalies with every TV so you have to TAKE YOUR TIME and think things through ... I went ahead and purchased the service manual for my model, it was a great supplement and for $16.95 a good investment. I recommend you do the same.
3. You may have to improvise or diverge from the script, e.g. the chassis was supposed to be secured to the outer case with three screws, but there was only one on my set.
4. A few hints for the amateur:
a. Capacitors. I'm still no expert, but the key is the Farad rating. You want 1000 microFarad replacements (1000uF) (someone posted something about a Mitsu service notice saying to use 667uF, I don't know about that). The set has 16V 105 deg C, caps installed. A lot of blogs about using 25, 35V replacements instead. I don't know if caps clip voltage or what, so if you use a higher V the only 'risk' is that something downstream of the capacitors might take a *******, but, if the only thing you can find is at RadioShack (they only carry the 1000uF 35V) it'll work. I used 25V caps because they were smaller than the 16V ones I also bought and would fit in the DM case (new 16V caps were way bigger than the originals).
b. Soldering/De-soldering. I had the benefit of being able to get an old PCB with lots of components on it, and it gave me a chance to PRACTICE 'desoldering' with a desoldering iron (Radio Shack, $9.99) AND wicking (a couple bucks). It takes some practice to get used to the technique, how long to heat the solder before it melts, using the 'bulb' (if that's what your using) on the desoldering iron, etc. I also resoldered the practice components back onto the PCB to practice soldering ... which I had never done before. One of the previous bloggers talked about using a tiny tiny bit of solder and working in into the hole on the board and getting a good connection. YES!!! But if you haven't soldered before practice ahead of time. Also the leads on the capacitor are very long, I clipped 3/4 of the length off before soldering, and then after soldering I clipped the rest down to the solder. ALSO and this is important you need to make sure the cap is snug against the board, so either support it from underneath (I had a piece of foam rubber that kept it in place) or you can use foreceps on an unsoldered lead close to the board to hold the cap in place and solder the other lead first.
c. Tools. I bought everything as per the instructions left on the site: there are options as far as soldering irons (make sure you have a small tip) desoldering irons, etc. its just a matter of availability and preference. They all work. I got my tools at Radio Shack. Spent maybe 35 bucks on desoldering iron, wick, solder, and a MAGNIFYING GLASS/STAND (it REALLY helped and it was $20, but remember, you are willing to pay $1000 if you can't fix it for $35, so DON'T GO CHEAP). Same with the components. I bought EIGHT 16V and 25V capacitors "just in case" I screwed up, and because I wanted to see what the size options were. They only cost something like 67 cents each, so, DON'T GO CHEAP. I paid extra for shippping andthe whole thing was under $20, maybe if I went cheap I would have spent $8 but who cares, I"M SAVING $950!!
d. Disassembly. Everything is great until you get the back off of the TV. A lot of the guides talk about taking off wooden shelves, or the plastic bracket on top of the DM board, but what I learned from my service manual is that by unscrewing three screws (I only found one, the other two weren't there) I could pull out the chassis and have total, unfettered access to the DM box.
I had to disconnect a few leads from other PCB's, and unfold some wire bundles to get the shelf out far enough, but before you unscrew brackets etc try pulling the chassis out. Again, this may be very specific to my 55813, but it was a big time and knuckle saver.

That's it. If you are even THINKING about whether you can do this, you probably can. I think it's a matter of CONFIDENCE and PATIENCE. I looked at it this way: Before I came across this blog, I had resigned myself to paying $1000 bucks for a repairman. Doing it myself, after supplies etc, I save $950 bucks. Worse case, after trying it still doesn't work and I end up paying the $1000 plus now I have more neat tools etc to mess around with.

Again, I CANNOT say ENOUGH about the guys who post to this site who took the time to take pictures and do parts and tools lists and sources of supply etc etc. Many of the initial postings are as old as 2005 (it's 2010 now ... hey, maybe time to upgrade my set??!!) but as these sets get older this problem may pop up again and the solution is TIMELESS.

PS lots of discussion on this blog about how the caps "dome" if overheated or failed. All of my caps were domed, as was predicted.

I think I've covered it all, I hope I explained things clearly enough, if not leave a question.

Thanks everyone,

Jake Straw (NOT from Wichita)

[JakeStraw]

Forgot to mention while I was inside the TV I took the time to clean off the lenses ... I used a camera duster to blow off loose dust and then lens cleaning swaps .... several of them .... to clean the lenses. Might be psychological, but it appears to have made a big difference.

JakeStraw

[TCH5150]

I just want so say hello and I'm a member of the blinking light club. My Mits is a 62327. I can't seem to find this "DM" board referred to in these posts. On the main chassis I have a power board with four large 1000MFD capacitors. But these are 200v 105C caps which is equal to or higher than what is recommended. Here is the overall shot of the board:
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a358/coyote5150/photo-21.jpg

This is the chassis I removed the board from:
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a358/coyote5150/photo-17.jpg

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a358/coyote5150/photo-19.jpg

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a358/coyote5150/photo-18.jpg

Am I looking at the correct caps or am out in left field?

[tlowecats]

I have a 52327 that I think is close to the 62327. I believe the difference is that the chasis is a vk 26. I have mine completely apart and the fmt board is completely different then the pics I see on here. I didn't find any bulging caps anywhere, so I'm not sure if that it the problem with wd-52327 or 62327. My set has been unpredictable for the past 4 months. Sometimes it will power on and sometimes no video or sound followed by the blinking green light then stops on red. I changed the lamp and cleaned the dust out inside, but to no avail. Does anyone have any suggestions for these sets? I think I read a previous post about the processors not working together, do I plan on trying those after I attempt to get this back together.

[sprky0328]

Have a mitsubushi WS-55815 55in Rear Projection HDTV

Had blinking green light when I picked it up. Replaced Capacitors and still nothing.

Tried reset, nothing there. Leaving unplugged overnight also doesnt work.

Tried error diagnostic. Error Code reported 12. Green flashing light is about 70 seconds. After it stops the TV is non-responsive afterwards unless reset is pushed, or tv is unplugged and plugged back in.

Have tested voltage and what little i remember from school. seemed to have 120v pretty fair into the circuit path.

Thinking DM board is fine since error code 12 and at least the fan is working on the DM board.

I'm at a loss on what else to try. The only thing I can think of is there is a PS bad, or a relay somewhere on the PCB-MAIN board.

TV was free so Im not worried about doing anymore solder work or whatnot.

If anyone has any ideas, let me know. Have been looking through 4 different manuals for information. The Service Manual, Owners Manual, Schematics Manual and Tech Training Manual, and have so far come up with nothing.

[Kevindtuber]

Are these the bad caps on my wd62525? This is the "power board" is this the right board or do I need to look further? 2 look bad to me.

http://emob1002.photobucket.com/albums/af145/Kevindtuber/021b057f.jpg?t=1281858435

http://emob1002.photobucket.com/albums/af145/Kevindtuber/834c89c4.jpg?t=1281858421

Dm board caps look ok
http://emob1002.photobucket.com/albums/af145/Kevindtuber/0662e18f.jpg?t=1281902984

[montev]

I have a Mit. ws-65611 and the picture is too high...if I'm watching a football game, the top scoreboard is partially off the screen. I have been through all the menus and can't find anywhere to adjust it. I also couldn't find anywhere in the manual on how to adjust the picture.

[JohnLIrvine]

I have a Mits WD-65909 purchased back in 2002 before HD was being carried by the various cable companies. After a black out last week, I also ran into the blinking light syndrome and thanks to the various comments about the replacing the seven caps on the DM board I was able to get the unit repaired for under $100.
Thanks guys!

[liquidmic]

Wanted to say thanks to all the great post on this. I have a WS-65869 built in 2002. I had the green blinking light of death and followed the great instructions posted here and fixed it for around $15. Thanks everyone.

[darco]

WOOT :rockon:

Just installed the DM and I am a ROCKING! ..ya the cap size was fine and no, none of the caps looked puffy at all. Caps were black made by Nichicon.
The Tech charged me $25 to solder. The Caps were $18 and the in house estimate was $45...add some drive time,.... great bargain :D
Thanks and good luck to all who run into this problem.

darco

dang, another power outage and back to square one!....2 years aint bad. That post dated 12/23/08
Right now I just have a blinking cursor. Left the tv unplugged over nite and still the same. I tried to bring up an error code (hold menu/device) but nothing changes.
What are the chances that I need to pull the DM again and replace the caps?
thxs
p.s I still love this tv

[tdays]

Followed the instructions to removed the DM module and daughter board (by the way, my capacitors had no noticable bulging). Took the board to Electronics Parts Outlet here in Houston where they did a superb soldering job for only $35. The capacitors were a little pricey at $1.50 a piece. Put it all back together and my 8 year old WS65-511 is working like a champ. Hope to get another 8 years out of it.

Thanks for all the helpful posts on this subject. Now I can go spend the $700+ I saved by not using a TV Rip-Off, I mean TV Repair man, on some other toys.

[darco]

FYI....as posted above, my set went out again after replacing the caps 2years ago.
Did everything exactly as I did before and my tv is working once again.
The 3 caps were definitely puffy. So the next time a storm comes around, I will have the set unplugged as I was w/o a tv for 2 weeks and I didnt seem to mind it, except missing the NFL playoff games (well I did watch some of it on a 20" bedroom tv but its aint the same as a 55" hi-def tv!)
Cost 40 bucks

darco