"Component Video" Switch

[pturner5]

Any thoughts on these? Anyone used this one with any success? What about diminished picture quality by using the switch? I know these aren't intended to be used with HD components, but if you match the colors up, shouldn't you in theory be just fine?? Using this along with the 4 Way Digital Optical Selector could be a very cheap solution to multiple HD input problems.

4 Way Switch (http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&category%5Fname=CTLG%5F002%5F002%5F001%5F000&product%5Fid=15%2D1978)

[57U]

Should work, see the following thread where it has been discussed before. See my post most of the way down - November 8.

http://www.hdtvoice.com/voice/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1066

[pturner5]

Yeah, I had seen that post before. I was just wondering if anyone in this forum had tried it for themselves.

[pturner5]

Just wanted to let you guys know I ended up buying that component switcher and digital optical switcher from Radio Shack and they work perfectly!! You cannot tell a difference in picture quality at all. A very cheap solution to having mulit-HDTV inputs!!:D :D

[mikehbkwm]

I dont wanna sound stupid but how would that work with component cables if thats just for composite..

[BadCamper]

mike, it's quite simple. Composite and Component Video use the same "RCA" type connectors, so you would just match the inputs and outputs with the component video connections, making sure you didn't cross any cables at one end or the other.

As far as the audio connections being a different Mhz than the video connections on a Composite A/V switcher, I would lay down good imaginary money that those things are wired with RG-59 on the inside for all the connections...so you would have an equal signal loss across all three connections.

[mikehbkwm]

Well understand that component is just basically 3 rca's but what i dont get is on the back of that A/V switcher from radio shack is that there is only 3 yellow composite in's on the back with 1 composite out. Now are you saying you would take one component cable per 1 composite on the back of the av switcher.

[57U]

Mike, you use the yellow, red & white (audio), putting say a red to red, green to white and blue to yellow, making sure you do the same for all the connections. You don't use the audio for audio, you use it for video.

You also use the multiple side for the "ins" and the one output to the TV.

[mikehbkwm]

You know I totally learned something today, and Im sorry that I didnt even realize this. That is a way cheaper way of doing it. Im going to go out and buy that A/V switcher and do that. AWESOME.

[MrGibbage]

I tried the A/V switcher that RS sells- the one with the optical inputs and uses any remote control to switch the inputs. Mine didn't work at all for me when I tried to run my component inputs through it. I figured it was a bandiwdth issue. If yours worked for you, I'd love to know what I did wrong. I've long taken it back, so I don't have it any more.

You know, I really wish the TV manufacturers would put a lot more inputs on the tvs. My Mitsu allows you to make screen adjustments for each input, but if you are doing all of your switching outside of the tv, you lose this capability.

[57U]

MrG. I've heard that the manual switches work, while the "remote control" ones may have difficulty... Not sure why, but it probably is the internal connection. A remote switch may not utilize as "robust" a connection, since it needs to be switched electrically, while a manual switch can be more robust...

Just theory since I haven't looked inside... I have heard that the manual switches work just fine, from many different people.

[pturner5]

I am not sure about the remote control ones. I just got the manual switch. They were out of the the remote controlled ones. I guess I lucked out!! Anyhow..it works great!

[too2buff]

" As far as the audio connections being a different Mhz than the video connections on a Composite A/V switcher, I would lay down good imaginary money that those things are wired with RG-59 on the inside for all the connections...so you would have an equal signal loss across all three connections."

so there would be some signal loss what switch box (whether it be composite or component or both) gives you the least amount of signal loss

please post links

is this one any good
High Definition Component Video Selector by Victor Company of Japan

I was probably going to save my money and buy a audio authority 1154 but i'm re thinking that now

[woodman]

Originally posted by too2buff
" As far as the audio connections being a different Mhz than the video connections on a Composite A/V switcher, I would lay down good imaginary money that those things are wired with RG-59 on the inside for all the connections...so you would have an equal signal loss across all three connections."

Highly unlikely that any switcher you might buy will be wired with RG-59 on the inside - possible, but not at all likely. As to signal loss ... no, no, and no. The amount of signal lost through a mechanical switcher is gonna be far too small to even measure without the most expensive, sophisticated test equiment available.

... "so there would be some signal loss what switch box (whether it be composite or component or both) gives you the least amount of signal loss"

There again, no switcher mfg. that I know even bothers to "spec" that parameter since there is vitrtually none to measure.

{B] ... "is this one any good
High Definition Component Video Selector by Victor Company of Japan" - "I was probably going to save my money and buy a audio authority 1154 but i'm re thinking that now [/B]

Good idea Too2. Buy a switch that meets your needs at the best price you can find, and you'll have the best performance that you could ask for regardless of which switch you choose.

[BadCamper]

woodman: Highly unlikely that any switcher you might buy will be wired with RG-59 on the inside - possible, but not at all likely. As to signal loss ... no, no, and no.

You'd be suprised what manufacturers do to cut corners...and I still stand by my argument that inexpensive A/V switchers are wired with RG-59 or equivilant sub-standard wiring.

As for signal loss...even if they used 24k gold to wire the inside of those A/V switches, you're going to get a nominal amount of signal loss. It doesn't take the most expensive, sophisticated test equipment to prove/disprove this.

Any time you have a break in a connection between the source and the receiver (in this case being the Component Video source and the Television) you are forcing the electricity conducting through that wire to make a physical "jump" or arc from one piece of wire to another (in the case of an A/V switch you would be doing so two times where the CV cables plug in). Splicing or breaking a circuit will ALWAYS result in a loss of signal. Don't believe me? Take that RG-6 running from your OTA Antenna or Satellite dish, cut to breaks in the line and splice it back together. Then go check your signal strength. I'm willing to bet real money this time that your signal strength won't be as strong as it originally was.

[too2buff]

wow thanks for the response I tried it out today and I had my brother switch back and forth between the two inputs and I did not notice any difference I turned my head when he changed or pretended to change the inputs so the psychological factor didn't come into play (ie. I only think its better picture because I know its connected directly and not with a switch and vice versa ) so until the price drops on the true switches I'm going to stick with this temporary solution.

After my test I bought two av switches (one for audio and one for video) pelican from best buy $19.99 each 5 inputs so I'm pretty satisfied maybe if i studied the picture more i'd notice a difference but at this point i'm happy I saved money and it looks pretty damn good

test conducted

i hooked up my ps2 w/ monster component cables directly to a 34" toshiba widescreen and I used his component cables to go through a a/v switch using monster video3 output to the tv w/ a progressive scan game (tekken 4)

bottom line - did not see any difference

thanks for all the help

[BadCamper]

Glad to hear it worked out for you, too2buff!

[woodman]

Originally posted by BadCamper
You'd be suprised what manufacturers do to cut corners...and I still stand by my argument that inexpensive A/V switchers are wired with RG-59 or equivilant sub-standard wiring.

What would surprise me would be that any of your "info" was actually correct! You're talking to someone who has actual, hands-on experience in A/V switching technology. I would assume that all of your wisdom in this area has come to you via some statements of fact from some "expert" (wannabe) that you've read somewhere.

During the course of my long, winding career (of 52 years) through the consumer electronics industry, I founded an A/V accessory company in 1980 to manufacture and market switchers that I personally designed. My designs were innovative to the extent that they were honored at CES shows for several years with "Engineering Achievement Awards" in the early 1980s. So I know about switching equipment first-hand.

R.F switchers would use RG-59 internally - whether expensive or inexpensive - wouldn't matter. Switchers for audio and video signals will most likely use plain hookup wire - NOT coax in their internal design.

"As for signal loss...even if they used 24k gold to wire the inside of those A/V switches, you're going to get a nominal amount of signal loss. It doesn't take the most expensive, sophisticated test equipment to prove/disprove this.

Any time you have a break in a connection between the source and the receiver (in this case being the Component Video source and the Television) you are forcing the electricity conducting through that wire to make a physical "jump" or arc from one piece of wire to another (in the case of an A/V switch you would be doing so two times where the CV cables plug in). Splicing or breaking a circuit will ALWAYS result in a loss of signal. Don't believe me? Take that RG-6 running from your OTA Antenna or Satellite dish, cut to breaks in the line and splice it back together. Then go check your signal strength. I'm willing to bet real money this time that your signal strength won't be as strong as it originally was.

Again, your "info" is totally incorrect. Of course there are "losses" involved in any interconnect or switching scenario ... the question is: ARE ANY OF THESE LOSSES MEANINGFUL???????

The answer to that is a big fat NO!!!!!

When there is a physical connection made by a mechanical switch, there is no such thing as an "arc" or electricity "jumping across the junction" - that would abdicate the very meaning of those words and phrases. So, throw away all of those "facts" that you so carefully enunciated here ... they are flat-out WRONG! Plus, they don't serve any useful purpose - for you or anyone else.

respectfully,

[BadCamper]

I wasn't responding to the original question in pursuit of an argument...nor did I read a couple of articles on the internet and dub myself an Electrical Engineer.

As far as the RG-59 rebuttal...you have repeatedly neglected to recognize my comment "...or equivilant substandard wiring..." My point is that for $29.99 you can't expect top-of-the-line quality put into an A/V switcher. Perhaps I should have made my point much more clear for you to understand.

As far as manufacturers cutting corners...you ever looked inside the packaging box of the Hughes E86 HD-DirecTV tuner? The "high defintion" Component Video Cables are RG-59 with RCA Red/Green/Blue corresponding F-connector tips. I can name dozens of manufacturers who cut those very same corners in some way or another.





Now never assumed anything about your hands-on experience in the field of A/V switching technology, so I should only hope you don't make assumptions about me or anybody else on this Forum.

I have worked consumer electronics retail for several years. In those years I have learned/explored/taken apart/re-assembled (sometimes successfully and sometimes not) many a variety of electronics including VCR's, DVD players, A/V receivers, Televisions, Speakers, at times even Computers, and various home audio/video junk. I do not consider myself an expert with the hands-on experience that I have acquired...though I do consider myself far more knowledgable than some "wannabe." Now I may not have 52 years of experience in this industry, (nor would I want to, aside from it being a hobby) but I am certainly no greenhorn.

Again, I am not trying to start some "Flame War" or a battle of wits, I am simply trying to establish my credentials which you have assumed to be worth very little.



Now any student who has taken a basic Physics course can tell you that simply taking two pieces of metal and "putting them together" will not magically cause those two pieces of metal to fuse together and produce a single piece of metal...not without fusing or welding them together, anyways.

And at the atomic level the electrons passing through the copper wire have three options when they reach this union of two pieces of metal.
1: Pass from one atom to an atom of the other piece of metal that makes contact with the first
2: If the current is high enough, arc from a gap between the first and second piece of metal
or
3: Terminate the flow of electrons and disperse.


As for the signal loss not being meaningful...it usually isn't. But when a signal passes from a source (say a DVD player) through cables, possibly passing through an Amplifier/Receiver, and then both in & out of an A/V switcher and finally into the receiver (say a Television)...you are getting a lot of unnecessary signal loss.

I would only reccomend using an A/V switcher for worst case scenarios...and if it doesn't hamper the intended user's own opinion on the quality of the results, then it's worth considering.

But I STILL stand by my argument that a break in a linear connection of a circuit will cause a nominal amount of signal loss in any situation.

In your 52 years of actual hands-on experience did you ever happen to attempt installing local-reception OTA antennas or Satellite equipment?

If yes...in those times have you ever used a single piece of RG-6, aligned the DISH or OTA antenna to the best possible reception...and then happened to use that very same configuration and equipment with a spliced or joined piece of RG-6 and observed the signal strength?

If no...try it. Every day should be recognized for a meaningful experience of some sort or another...you might have 52 years worth, but it's never too late to learn more.

respectfully,

BadCamper

[57U]

I'm right, you're wrong, no I'm right and you're wrong . Geez.

1. No one's going to put a switch in the line unless they need it.

2. The inexpensive manual switch discussed earlier seems to do the job as well as any switch.

That about sums it up, whether there are electrons with Heisenberg uncertainty crossing the gaps or whether it's magic.

If you don't feel comfortable with this, you can spend more on a switch that'll make you happy. Your choice.

[BadCamper]

I know, I know. I should have just sucked it up and taken it like a man, but I don't appreciate being belittled and having my own personal integrity being attacked by someone who doesn't even know me.

I completely agree with your philosophy, 57U, that if it makes you happy then just go with it.

[tman701]

I can see using the RS box to switch the component signals.
But what about the digital audio?

Right now im okay with how many inputs I have, but I know I will need more in the very near future for my X-box.



Tman

[pturner5]

Radio Shack has a Digital Optical input switcher that has worked great for me.

[tman701]

Awesome,

Thanks pturner5.

[billw]

So,
this mhz rating for switches is more crucial with electrical switches rather than mechanical switches?

[SteelBluePT]

has anyone used this successfully as a component video switcher?

http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.gsp?product_id=2181628&cat=4537&type=19&dept=3944&path=0%3A3944%3A3987%3A3964%3A4537

[FatDog]

You can always go for this one for about $90 if you are a Hulk fan: :)

http://www.avtoolbox.com/images/avt-5842-front.gif

AV Toolbox (http://www.avtoolbox.com/avt-5842.htm)

[dmlove]

Could somebody explain to a relative newbie what a component video switch is used for? (My setup is JVC HD-capable tv, Panasonic DVD player, JVC VCR, Sony audio/video theatre receiver, Motorola 5100 cable box). Thanks.

[BrianW]

Component Video switches are for when you have more HD components then inputs on your TV.

example: Your TV has two sets of Component Video Inputs.
But you have 5 HD components: HD STB (Like the Moto 5100), DVD Player, XBox, PS2, and Gamecube. So you would need 5 sets of inputs.
This is where the switch box comes in. You plug the DVD, Xbox, PS2 and Gamecube into the inputs on the switch box then hook the output from the switch box to the second component input on the TV. The HD STB goes in the first Component set on the TV.

[dmlove]

Perfect explanation - thanks. Since I only have DVD and HD, I don't need one (I'll spend my money on something else!)

[martinR]

I've gone to a lot of trouble to set up the seamless switching of devices between D*TV SD, D*TV HD, cable, DVD, VCR & PS2 using my new MX-700 remote. I currently have the DVD connected with composite cables & have considered puting in a switch however I would ony consider a remote controled one. This thread has mentioned that these may not be as good as manual switches. Does anyone have any more details on this?

[SteelBluePT]

Originally posted by martinR
I've gone to a lot of trouble to set up the seamless switching of devices between D*TV SD, D*TV HD, cable, DVD, VCR & PS2 using my new MX-700 remote. I currently have the DVD connected with composite cables & have considered puting in a switch however I would ony consider a remote controled one. This thread has mentioned that these may not be as good as manual switches. Does anyone have any more details on this?

I echo this question with this particular switcher... anyone with experience know for sure?

http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&category%5Fname=CTLG%5F003%5F010%5F011%5F000&product%5Fid=15%2D1977

[SteelBluePT]

Originally posted by SteelBluePT
I echo this question with this particular switcher... anyone with experience know for sure?

http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&category%5Fname=CTLG%5F003%5F010%5F011%5F000&product%5Fid=15%2D1977

I just bought this one with the learning function and it works well with component cables

Another Update: I originally checked this box out with my PS2 with a game and it worked well, today I tried it with a DVD Spiderman and the colors are muddled with this box- too much red.... wouldnt recommend- will take this one back for one without the learning function to see if it works any better

[zuerchers]

i has an old terk switcher lying around and tried it...works great. same design as the radioshack version. i tried very hard to notice a difference between the picture quality with a direct connection and with a connection made thru the switch...i cant see one.
neat little trick, thanks
BTW, its a manual switch.

[FatDog]

This thread has mentioned that these may not be as good as manual switches.

I'm not sure that's quite true.

There is a post about Video Switchbox's (http://www.hometheaterforum.com/htforum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=110726) over at Home Theater fourm. There are several such units that take not only video, but both optical and coaxial digital and switch them as well.

If you want to use your receiver, a few of these box's will "learn" the codes from your receiver remote so it keeps the video in sync with the audio.

The thread is long, but you will find posts from people who have bought the units, and even one of the designers of the box joins in the discussion.