Replaced ICs and resistors...still get 3 blinks

[kube_1989]

Any ideas? the solder joints all look good.
everything plugged back in.

Used new Sanyo 394-160's (was informed these are the replacement for stk392-110) and still 3 blinks....


any other help would be appreciated.


Thanks.

a bit more info:
last owner DID attempt to replace them, as well.
NOT as skilled with the soldering iron as I- to say the least.
I cleaned all the pads off- but a few areas he had burned off some of the pads...there was still SOME area to solder to- but not a lot.

It doesn't appear to have any contacts bridged. all the 2.2ohm 2watt resistors are replaced and reading properly.

went around and checked all the other resistors and pico fuses on the board and they all appear to be reading what's expected. (one does have a bit of ceramic chipped off- but still reads ok). there is an 8.2Mohm resistor (at R832) next to the 110 AC clip that I can't get a reading on...my meter only has 200,2000,20k,200k,2000k and no setting gets me a reading.

Also, there is a 2 prong clip at D31 that has no leads going to it, It only strikes me as odd because it is the only one on the board with nothing going to it.

when I turn it on- all three guns start heating up- I can see them start to glow at the base- then it cuts off and gives the 3 blink. (led is RED....is it always red?)

[kube_1989]

Well... if someone could throw me a bone on this...I don't know if lack of responses is a "Geez, didn't this idiot read the threads?" or if no one has any suggestions.

I DID read all the convergence threads and removed and resoldered everything I replaced 3 times now and am confident it's all good connections. I talked to a reputable electronics shop who said that pretty much if it's not the resistors, IC's or possible a fuse- then the code wouldn't be a 3 blink code.

now...is there the chance I had a bad solder joint and blew the new IC's? I'd hate to keep ordering new ones if there IS something ese that would cause the 3 blink code...

SOME response would at least be helpful...even if you call me an idiot- at least I know what to do next... Thanks.

[RadarControl]

I have Panasonic 47WX42F, and have the exact same issues as you. When I first replaced out my chips the set worked great for about 30 min, then I started to smell that great smell of a burning resistor. I found that both of my CONV 18V resistors had burned up. After searching for a day I found out what the proper value was for them, and replaced them out. Turned on the set, and got the 3-blink code. So I figuered it was my chips again, and replaced them out with new ones - still the same code. I have no idea what is going on - everything checks out fine that I tested.

The only thing I can think of is another type of IC chip on the board maybe fried and throwing that code off for some reason.

This board does not seem to be very active, or the people on here appear to not like giving up their knowledge. I asked a question a few days ago, and have yet to hear a reply back.

[Splicer]

I would love to assist you if I had any ideas. But with the 'added info' you provided, I would say that the previous owner messed the set up pretty good. If there was even one solder bridge that shouldn't have been, the TV could be shot now that power has been applied several times. You just don't know what damage could have occured to the traces in the PCB.

Sorry, but thats the best I can offer. Good luck.

[Splicer]

I have Panasonic 47WX42F, and have the exact same issues as you. When I first replaced out my chips the set worked great for about 30 min, then I started to smell that great smell of a burning resistor. I found that both of my CONV 18V resistors had burned up. After searching for a day I found out what the proper value was for them, and replaced them out. Turned on the set, and got the 3-blink code. So I figuered it was my chips again, and replaced them out with new ones - still the same code. I have no idea what is going on - everything checks out fine that I tested.

The only thing I can think of is another type of IC chip on the board maybe fried and throwing that code off for some reason.

This board does not seem to be very active, or the people on here appear to not like giving up their knowledge. I asked a question a few days ago, and have yet to hear a reply back.Based on this post, I would suggest a more serious problem is the culprit. As I said above, if you have/had a solder bridge that shouldn't have been, and power was applied, there is no telling what damage could have been done. Also, something helped the original components fail and if that wasn't repaired then there will be nothing but problems.

At this stage you are too far in technically speaking to receive internet help. You will likely need to consult a service center familiar with your set. Sorry.

[kube_1989]

because I can buy a new Convergence board, loaded with all components for around $200.... I just don't want to lay out that kind of cash if it's likely the damage went beyond that board.

[Splicer]

And yet it is very probable the damage did extend to other boards. Personally I would just go to Craigs List and pick up another set for cheap. People are practically giving them away. Of course you get the idiots that think you will pay $1600 for their 5 year old set they paid $2300 for. Around here I can get 55-57 inch HD CRT sets all day long for $300 at the low end to $475 at the high end.